GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions => Topic started by: Rodmiami on August 08, 2011, 07:43:42 PM
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I have just about had it with this kit . When I got it the internal controller was defective . After several weeks gary convenced Golden Motors it was defective . Two months ago the bike started to cut out , the first time when I hit a bump . Then it became a regular thing . Turn it on all lights say go , twist the throttle , goes about 5 feet and cuts out . I cleaned the switch it was better but I still had to turn the switch on and off every time it cut off . I decided to replace the switch with a battery cut off switch for a boat . The switch is rated at 300A at 48v continuous . It worked one day . I spent another day checking the connections and it still cuts out . I think that I might have a bad connection inside the battery that I cannot see . Should I remove the internals and check? How do you pull out the cells to check . If this doesn't work the motor is coming off the bike and I will be peddling . At least I know I can go somewhere on my bike . One more comment , I don't go very far from my bubble and I have done the math . My truck gets 14 mpg , I use $40 worth of gas per month ,thats $480 per year . Its cheaper to use my truck than spend anymore money on more Golden Motor replacement batterys .
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I would like to add to my post . I have a 36v 16A battery . I get 41.3 v at the connecter at the front wheel , Rod
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Hi there,
sorry to hear about you problems, it can be frustrating; I'm in the same boat. Unfortunately, it sounds like you have cell damage to the battery. How long have you had the battery?
I also have to test my battery to see how my cells are doing, here is the thread I will be using to help test my cells.
http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=3279.0
From what I was suggested, you want to test all the cell groups after they are discharged since the voltage differences will be easier to spot. I haven't got around to testing mine, but I think I might go ahead and try it tonight. I've got a couple trucks myself, I'd much rather save them for highway/winter/off-road driving than blowing money on gas to get to work.
Anyone have any other ideas or suggestions for testing cells or repairing a GM battery pack?
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I have given up on trying to post the picture of what I found inside the battery when I opened it. The BMS was partally unplugged . My problem started when I hit a bump . The bms was half unplugged probably never fully plugged when assembled . I am not going to spend anymore time and typing another 15 lines of information , when 1 picture tells a thousand words . Lets just say the battery is making a slow recovery.Rod
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Since the picture did come out . If you find this in your battery do not try to push in the plug like I did , it will only bend the end pin . Unplug it check the pins and plug it in straight , if you need to straighten a pin use a non conductive item such as a wood Qtip . The battery is making a come back . I ride it ,I charge it . It still cuts out on full acceleration , but gentle use of the throttle and some peddling I can get full speed . If it cuts out and the red LED is lit , I only have to hit the brake to kick in the REGIN and all the lights come back. If it cuts out fully I still have to turn the switch off and on . I am hoping that the batterys will stabilize . Rod
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Hi Rod, thanks for sharing. You situation sounds exactly like mine after your mention how it cuts out on full acceleration then pressing the brake/turning off the battery to reset it. Here is the thread I've been posting in http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=3499.0 Can you explain why you think the battery is making a slow recovery? Thanks,
- Paul
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There are different ways BMS manages equalizing of the cells; some does it close to the end of the charge, and some does it after the charge are completed; without the help of the charger.
Which method GM's batteries use, I do not know, but I suspect it uses the latter... If so, you might speed up the recovery by disconnect the charger after end of charge; let the battery rest (equalize) for 1/2 hour, then reconnect the charger for 10minutes (or until the charger says battery are full, and then repeat the process a number of times...
If the charger uses a long time to top up after the first rest, and a short time after the process has been repeated a number of times, you'll know someting (good) has happened... ;)
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This is a follow up to my previous posts . My battery was failing ,it was 18 months old . I bought a new one from Gary . Now life is good . The original battery always dimmed the green light . The new battery not even a flicker . I now have a full Magic Pie kit and it flies . I have it set to factory specs . 36v 16a battery , settings 24v 30a cont 50a max on my 26" beach cruiser , 21.9 MPH . Zoom zoom . Rod
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Mine is doing just as you've described. I believe I've had a flaky cell all along... only with a full charge the bike would run fine - mostly. I've had this start fail then goes behavior forever. But now that the battery has aged after a year of use the 36v 16a fails consistently at 37v exactly as you describe. I don't think I will buy another GM battery. Ping sounds like a better alternative.
tom