GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => General Discussions => Topic started by: Leslie on November 06, 2010, 01:08:06 AM
-
A lot more has been going on at the 317537 residence than MP setups.
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2661.0;attach=3565;image)
Here is a picture I took today is of my current going green setup. Im running about 120 watts of true solar power on the roof and this enough to keep both bikes on the road during sunny weeks.
The old SLA's I purchased are no longer good enough for running a bike but still good enough to run in parallel solar charged to charge my pack,
So much pride comes with traveling on sun power. This system is capable of supporting 2 x 2 amp chargers and a few lights I have around the home. With another 40 watt panel on the roof may get me through a few cloudy days. I can get 3 average charges from these
-
Just did 18kms hard ride no pedals, used 5.6 ah. now charging from the sun charged SLA and rays from the roof. Battery is still charging at 54v
If I used 5.6ah and I am using a 2 amp charger. I should do it with 6ah from the charger.
About three hours it should take. The SLA's on the solar panels are sitting at 12.68v
And the 300 watt solar panel DC to AC inverter fan is blowing just off cool air from its box.
-
The charger must be using about 11 amps through the inverter. I have six 24ah SLA's probably lucky to give 15ah at 1C.
So all up I may have a 90ah SLA block and I use 33 ah to charge an 18km hard run, The 130 watt solar panels on a full SLA bank can provide 82% of the power needed to charge a single bike too. The Solar panel charger can induct 8 amps @ 14v from the panels.
So every 2/3 days I need to use the mains outlet. If we get no clouds we can see how many watts 130 watt panels gives to an ebike through the CA.
-
Done and Solar batteries is still soakn up the rays at 13.15v. Its late in the afternoon. Im only getting 2 amps from the panels. So thats not bad for my slab of lead.
I just found another two old SLA's that are going onto my 6 connected in the picture.
-
Ok here it is. The final touches to an Ebike I do not want to alter in any way more.
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2661.0;attach=3569;image)
The White wall tires add a nice touch.
I cleaned the frame with eucalyptus oil rag and baby wipes. Baby wipes are no.1 for cleaning LCD screens too.
-
The front light system.
A P7 in the middle 10 watts and two 3 watt side scouts. We need a night shot of them next.
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2661.0;attach=3571;image)
Two hose clamps interlocked made the best ever torch holder. Nothing Ive used has been stonger than this.
I have a left thumb throttle and a GM "half hand modded" right hand twist throttle
-
Nice setup! :)
As you imply, the pride and satisfaction to ride a 100% solar charged bike has no end... ;)
I also always charge my bike from my solar setup; 300W panels via a Steca pr2020 controller, into a Rolls S4000 series S530 bank (530Ah, 2x6V batteries) connected to a 1000W inverter.
It's nice to be able to squeeze some more juice out of some older batteries not useable for its primary function anymore.
But do you have a solar controller, or do you just manually monitor your sla's charge? 120W solar are more than enough to cook your sla's without a controller...
-
I have a 10 amp PWM solar charger that seems to squeeze a few hundred milliamps out of the panels than they actually give straight onto terminals.
I use a Dick Smith 300 watt square wave inverter that has a low voltage and high current alarm and cut off. It can run both 48v 2 amp and 36v 2.5 amp charger at the same time but not the 48v 5 amp charger. If Im lucky I may get 500~700 watts off my panels over the whole day and a single ride can use between 240 to 400 watts.
Plus over the week I don't seem to pull the voltage down on the SLA's unless the clouds come out for two days. But it may take two days to restore the SLA's to full voltage after cloudy weather.
So I am not 100% on green power. Most weeks I am. As I said another 40 watt panel and the 2 extra SLA just might seal the deal.
-
Here is a night shot of the lights, hard to get a good shot to do it justice, but these are a good enough indication.
These lights here are running off the power from the pack. So these lights too are using sun power.
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2661.0;attach=3573;image)
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2661.0;attach=3575;image)
-
JESUS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Les man that's crazy!!! And 20W too haha you are laughing in the face of any halogen user.
Fantastic work mate, creating a man made sun, powered from the sun and all -- hehe
8)
-
My likes on your bike
Solar charging
Halogen-killer lights
Interlocked hose clamps
White wall tyres
My wonders on your bike
Two throttles - Why?
10w P7 - Does these exist?
The motor, the battery and you, all over the rear wheel - Does it have any effect on the road manners?
Some pleated thing on the seat post - Does it contain a seat suspension?
Peter
-
It is a little back heavy but we can relax riding at high speed. It is a very heavy bike even without the motor and pack. It's only a 15ah ping still in the box it came in, anyway they are pretty light.
If I lift the front wheel off the ground it seems to be easy to manage the bike back down.
http://www.seoulsemicon.com/en/product/prd/zpowerLEDp7.asp
The Seoul P7 is like 4 leds in one light. Im running mine at 3.45v so it runs at about 9 watts, and the other two torches I have no idea what they are but they run better on the DC converter that they do on any AAA batteries.
Yeah thanks Peter I havent seen you here for some time. Seeing your bike at least inspired me to clean my old one up.
I think more I will take a close look at the solar system. With the CA with an evolving solar system at hand we can at least make some ground rules to get an entry level solar system up and running.
From doing this on and off for a few months now I could say a single pack 48v 12ah pack be adequately charged with a 2 amp ac wall charger hooked to a 150~200 watt DC to AC inverter.
I am going to do some load tests on the SLA pack that the inverter load has on the SLA bank so we can get a entry level size SLA bank. I would guestimate between 50 ah to 100 ah SLA bank with at least an 80~100 watt panel could see the average solar enthusiast fortunate to live at good sunny locations get piratical use from using solar charging..
-
JESUS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Les man that's crazy!!! And 20W too haha you are laughing in the face of any halogen user.
Fantastic work mate, creating a man made sun, powered from the sun and all -- hehe
8)
This conversion from light to re-conversion to light is a fascinating concept.
I also had some success powering peltier heat pumps with 12v panels to amplify solar heat through the peltier.
One hand we have a large black solar heat collector and a peltier connected to it. The whole point of peltiers is for cooling right. But in this situation we can use it for heating.
The Peltier in normal config generates heat on one side of the module and the heat is taken away via a heat sink while the other side become frigid cold., But I purpose instead of cooling use the peltier for heat because thats what they do best, heat it up by solar radiation and cool the heat collector with solar panel powered peltier and transfer heat from the module hot side through to a water conduit. In essence we gain the heat the peltier generates being powered by the solar panels and the pump effect is drawing heat from the black solar heat collector to the water too. No energy is wasted if done with good engineering and the peltier can be run efficiently for the first time after its inception. Its uses could be good for pre-heating water before it enters a main tank. And the designs purpose is to pum[p heat from a heat collector that may otherwise convect off any heating conduits used for preheating. Focusing solar radiation and cooling the solar heat collector to accept more heat for transfer to the water.
The peltier substrate semiconductor could be incorporated in to a high surface are design fabricated inside the conduit water system.
Its similar to Peters work on the vertical wind turbines exciting water to a warm state before it enters a heating tank. But solar idea IMO in my sunny area with heat may be non wind power alternative.
-
The 3 amp peltier works well on a 40 watt panel and a small black heat collector almost had me boiling water. Much more thought needed to be put into how I set this up.
Like I am eyeing off a peltier 5 amp module for my next experiment and a better dish and heat transfer method.. The large modules will require more amps but they make more heat per volt as I think they have a lower internal resistance and lower working voltage..
-
Here is the close look at where I store and distribute my solar juice.
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2661.0;attach=3580;image)
The panel controller is a Sunsaver 10 amp flooded/lealed lead acid charger. I got all my solar gear and SLA's from the local Solar Hart store Dick Smith and Jaycar.. You remove a post joiner to select from flooded or sealed lead acid..
The Dick smith inverter, the first one failed upon connection at one time with no load so I returned it and they replaced if free with a new one that seems to be better.
If I put a 48v 5 amp charger on it it makes a warning beep, if I plug 2 two amp chargers into it the cooling fan operates immediately how ever the inverter never gets close to what I would call hot. Barely warm is a better description.
The square wave is safe with most pre-rectified before induction battery chargers, meaning most if not all standard E'bike chargers will not mind the output of this type of square wave AC power wave form. Certainly all my chargers accept the 12v ones with a heavy power transformer work perfectly with this inverter. The power transformer chargers make a 50hz buzz but I have still used them on this inverter.
Two wires also run off into the roof where there is a DIY 12v to 3.2v simple switcher to run white leds at their native voltages and a 12v rail for auto stuff, like lights and car stereo's.
-
I woke up this morning not keen to ride as it was raining. The solar charge station kept the LiFePo4 balanced and 36v SLA pack on the smaller bike balanced over night. Didn't test the voltage as a quick glance at the analogue volt meter showed it was above 12v.
I did a 20km run today, maybe used about 4.2 ah. I finished charging a few hours ago on the solar charged batteries. It was cloudy all day and the 7 old 24ah SLA batts are still a healthy 12.4v. Even being cloudy all day for 2 days would allow me to do 20+ kms per day from this charging station.
-
Hey Les make sure you save some of that love for your wife !!
:D
I'm jealous.... again..... hehe there's not enough sun in Melbourne but plenty of wind !!
-
Once again, another very impressive thread. I would love to do something like this, but I really don't understand what is required. Maybe someday when you get some free time (if you ever do) maybe you can make up one of those "new fangled wiring diagrams" showing what components are required between the sun and the bike for us laymen to understand.
I am also wordering Peters question, "Why two throttles"
Is one a spare in case of failure or are they both wired and you can use either?
Gary
-
Hey Gary, I'm sure you are being modest! I can draw it here for you champ
Solar panel----> Regulator controller ----> Batteries -----> Inverter -----> Charger ------> eBike, other stuff -----> Smile :D
If you just want to charge bikes in the sun then you are best to go this way:
Solar panel (x amount in series for voltage/parallel for current) ----> Regulator controller ----> eBike Battery
So you are not converting DC to AC then back to DC again...arggh dizzy! (+heat,loss,inefficiency issues)
Maybe after your next order to GM, you will find one of those folding direct plug-ins in that pocket of yours.... :D
MM
-
Hey Gary, I'm sure you are being modest! I can draw it here for you champ
Solar panel----> Regulator controller ----> Batteries -----> Inverter -----> Charger ------> eBike, other stuff -----> Smile :D
If you just want to charge bikes in the sun then you are best to go this way:
Solar panel (x amount in series for voltage/parallel for current) ----> Regulator controller ----> eBike Battery
So you are not converting DC to AC then back to DC again...arggh dizzy! (+heat,loss,inefficiency issues)
Sounds like the first option would be better as you can charge or run several things.
Maybe after your next order to GM, you will find one of those folding direct plug-ins in that pocket of yours.... :D
MM
Why did you say that? Now the wheels are turning in my head (squeak, squeak, squeak), I hear a voice saying "how can you possibly sell items you haven’t even tried yourself? You should at least order some for inventory!!!"
Gary
-
Ok cloudy rainy again. Haaa Im lucky to be getting 1 amp from the panels its so dark, the needle amp meter isnt that accurate to read, But after A WHOLE NIGHT of leaving the lights on the 12V sla's have regained .2v (12.6v) but still giving us lights inside during the dank dark morning.
I left the chargers on the packs for a few hours and switch them off the system before I went to bed. If I suspected the weather was going to be fine I would some nights just leave them on.
I have a number of small lights scattered about the home. Im thinking of setting the eldest children up with a small solar system for themselves.
This one is getting kinda too big to manage so instead of having one huge bank I can make a few systems to do. The amps this slab can push are pretty significant so I will stop while its still functional. I saw a fast short when installing SLA batt 8 and fried the post.
-
The up converters in these types of 12v dc to 220v ac converters work most efficiently when they are run over 80% to maximum capacity and under 95%.
So to be brief if you want a similar setup its good to pick an inverter that can just manage the watts needed to run your charger by 15%.
Often like my inverter the 300 watt label is underrated to spec so it is safe to stick by it.
Always consider down conversions to an 80~85% efficiency loss and high load up conversions efficiency can reach up to 95%..
So a GM battery charger charger may well lose 15% of the power through the switcher that actually makes it into you pack.
Your typical 2 amp charger may do 60v @ 2 amps, This is around 120 watts.
How to calculate the right size inverter.
Add for the loss of 5% up conversion of the inverter to charger input voltage 110v~220v.
120 watts/100=1.2
1.2X105= 126 watts
Now add for a loss of 15% to down conversion charger input to output losses.
126 watts/100=1.26
1.26*125%=157 watts.
On paper one would be prompted to order something that could do double this. In fact my 300 watt does doube the abobe figure very comfortably and would do up to a 5 amp 48v charger if it wasnt for the protection.
So using a 150 watt power inverter should be very nice for a single bike. The Watt rating makes it easy to chose the right size.
You should not overload the inverter,
So if you need 12VDC to 110VAC~220V inverter to power a 5 lithium ebike battery charger amps charger.
60v*5A= 300 watts.
300/100x105/100*125= 393 watts.
So any inverter above 400 watt rating for a 5 amp ebike charger will do fine.
If it works you will have a device already running at the max rating which is what these inveters just love, as long as the inverter is not flaming hot the device is working very well.
The good thing about the sun being out while charging you can avoid much of the chemical transformation process losses in the SLA's and the panels go straight to the converter charger to the pack.
Losses may equate to about 35% with the ebike battery charger being the most inefficient of the two conversions. But if one can avoid the inefficiency of charging another battery the better. The buck conversion inside our ebike battery chargers are inefficient than boost converters by nature anyway
If I get charging by mid day this thin really works well and I never see the SLAs drop below 12.9v and they stay flaot the rest of the day at 14v..
-
The above post could be easily summarized by a single rule of thumb.
For every 1 amp 48v ebike charge amp you would require 100 of watt rating 12v battery inverter.
like
2 amp charger would a 200 watt inverter
3 amps charger uses a 300 watt inverter.
The 36v chargers uses less watts too so you can do down to 90 watts per charger amp.
The equation above is, Required inverter rated watts (157watt) = (60v) max charge pack voltage * (2a) charger amps/100%*105%/100%*125%
-
Logged.
Bike
17.6km
287wh
Pretty windy, 35km average wind gusts
Cloudy until noon.
The panels needs a CA on it. But I was getting anywhere between 1 amp and 8 amps after noon. Sitting just over 13v with 3.5 amps solar panel current going to the whole string.
Ok its 3:10pm start two amp charge to 15 ah pack at 52.9v
SLA solar storage bank @ 12.7v
-
If I need to put in 25% more power than I have used.
287 wh *125% = 356 Watts,
At an average of 55v* 2amps charger = 110wh
356watt/110wh= 3.2 hours. IF It takes this long this shows me the CA is not badly calibrated.
Well im not even half charged and the old SLA bank has taken a beating down to 11.97v Once this bulk charge is finished I suspect the SLa volts will go back up,
My original multimeter I tested the 12.7 had a flat battery I fixed it now but to a lesser degree this log was unsuccessful. So the original volts for the first reading was too high. More like 12.5v was its starting voltage.
edit.
The 15ah ebike pack is hanging around at 53.9v this is normal behavior for LI packs to stay charging within a narrow voltage range for over an hour then start to race to a good balance voltage.
-
Here's a table that I find practical to determine approximate State of Charge (SoC):
% of Charge - - - - - - - Charging - - - -- - - At Rest - - - - - Discharging
100 - - - - - - - - - - - - 14.75 - - - - - - - - 12.70 - - - - - - 12.50
90 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13.75 - - - - - - - - 12.58 - - - - - - 12.40
80 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13.45 - - - - - - - - 12.46 - - - - - - 12.30
70 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13.30 - - - - - - - - 12.36 - - - - - - 12.25
60 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13.20 - - - - - - - - 12.28 - - - - - - 12.15
50 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13.10 - - - - - - - - 12.20 - - - - - - 12.00
40 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12.95 - - - - - - - - 12.12 - - - - - - 11.90
30 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12.75 - - - - - - - - 12.02 - - - - - - 11.70
20 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12.55 - - - - - - - - 11.88 - - - - - - 11.50
10 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12.25 - - - - - - - - 11.72 - - - - - - 11.25
The voltages under charging and discharging should be measured with at least C/20 current in/out, and the figures are @ around 26.7deg. C. at 0deg. C, one should add around 0.6-0,8v for charging, and subtract around 0.6v for discharging...
Ofcourse, this is only approximate, but gives one a good idea of the state of the battery when one are not able to measure the Specific Gravity (SG).). :)
Edit:
These figures are valid for Lead Acid batteries; the Lithium based batteries are a whole another matter when it comes to determine SoC... ;)
-
Mine is an SLA controller that goes no higher than 14v. This is because 100% SOC can be achieved with constant current at voltages as low as 13.85v. If it were practical even as low as 12.9 if it were possible to achieve an good current feed at this charge voltage.
However it finished.
LI batt @ 60:05v 6>05pm. Completed bulk charging in 2 hours and 55 mins (175mins). Estimated watts that charged pack @ 54v 2 amps = 315watts
Watts consumed 285wh by previous ride on eBike.
315 watt - 285watts = 30 watts overhead.
315/100=3.15
285/3.15=90.47%
Check figures.
315 watts/100*90.476= 284.9994 watts
Estimated efficiency if full balance were to be achieved at bulk charge, 90.47% take another 10% for balance closer to 80% efficiency..
Haa! and this is just for the LI charger. Doh!
SLA batt @ 11.73v and recovering I am still running one 5 watt light off the SLA's and balancing the 48v ebike pack. SLa has risen to 11.77 since typing this.
-
Well its official I cant get much further than 2 days in the clouds. I might be able to push another charge in this muggy weather by the end of tomorrow other iwse Im back on the wall outlet.
The inverter powering a single 48v two amp charger draws between 10 and 12 amps so we average this to 11 amps from the SLA pack.
We took approx 30 amps out of the SLAb today and about the same yesterday. I think I will be able to estimate the old SLA slabs remaining capacity soon enough.
Works much better when the suns out and volts are higher on the SLAb though.
-
Here's a table that I find practical to determine approximate State of Charge (SoC):
% of Charge - - - - - - - Charging - - - -- - - At Rest - - - - - Discharging
100 - - - - - - - - - - - - 14.75 - - - - - - - - 12.70 - - - - - - 12.50
90 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13.75 - - - - - - - - 12.58 - - - - - - 12.40
80 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13.45 - - - - - - - - 12.46 - - - - - - 12.30
70 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13.30 - - - - - - - - 12.36 - - - - - - 12.25
60 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13.20 - - - - - - - - 12.28 - - - - - - 12.15
50 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13.10 - - - - - - - - 12.20 - - - - - - 12.00
40 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12.95 - - - - - - - - 12.12 - - - - - - 11.90
30 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12.75 - - - - - - - - 12.02 - - - - - - 11.70
20 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12.55 - - - - - - - - 11.88 - - - - - - 11.50
10 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12.25 - - - - - - - - 11.72 - - - - - - 11.25
The voltages under charging and discharging should be measured with at least C/20 current in/out, and the figures are @ around 26.7deg. C. at 0deg. C, one should add around 0.6-0,8v for charging, and subtract around 0.6v for discharging...
Ofcourse, this is only approximate, but gives one a good idea of the state of the battery when one are not able to measure the Specific Gravity (SG).). :)
Edit:
These figures are valid for Lead Acid batteries; the Lithium based batteries are a whole another matter when it comes to determine SoC... ;)
The discharge volts are handy. You know the sun can be bad for the whole day and the batt sits at 13.5v and if the sun pops out it can be fully charged. Solar charging with no CV and CC makes the % of charge table not so usefull.
-
Wow Im getting up to 9 amps at 12.76v and rising. The sun is in and out of the clouds now. It was a little better in the morning.
I think 130 watt worth of panels is plenty enough to keep an Ebike running. I think a 120 ah battery is more important.
I suspect I am running about 90ah with the old batts.
Like I use about 400 watts a day if the bank is charged by the time I do my daily ride all the power from the panel goes into the ebike pack. If I do it before 2pm on a sunny day I only have to use 3 amps on the fly 12ah in total from the battery. Which 12ah only tickles the 90ah SLAb. And by afternoon bike is often charged and my SLA pack has only 12ah which is just attainable from the afterrnoon sun at my location.
A guide to pick a battery for a panel.
10 watts per 10ah is a comfortable minimum SLA's will get up to SOC in a day
15 watts per 10ah is perfect for sunny locations.
20 watts per 10ah is better in cloudy weather or less sunny locations.
40 watts per 10ah for people who live in areas that don't get much sun.
It depends on your solar controller too, If you like to charge your packs really fast before miday with lots of current you would want one of a lower voltage.
Where as something slower with smaller panels and lower current would be better with a higher voltage bulk charge and low float. My sun saver charges 9 amps to 14v off my panels and this is almost spot on with my panels output ratings.
-
Hey mate
With the output of your batteries combined, you could even make a decent charger using a step up converter
I found this modified converter:
http://cgi.ebay.com/120W-Adjustable-DC-DC-Step-up-Converter-12V-Out-48V-/260691589101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb26df7ed (http://cgi.ebay.com/120W-Adjustable-DC-DC-Step-up-Converter-12V-Out-48V-/260691589101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb26df7ed)
It doesn't show current consumption, but I think this would compete with the inverter? I wish I had panels :( lol
Using a LM317 (your mate) you could create a current limited 2.5A charger from the output, and feed 52/53V into your batteries. What do you think of this?
-
Maximum would need to be 61v or even higher if I was to us an LM317t or a LM338 chip.
Ping batt and the BMS charges my pack up close to 61v.
-
Cool
just slap a couple of AA batteries in there then
;)
-
Cool
just slap a couple of AA batteries in there then
;)
Wha? ??? I think you misunderstood me maybe. The DC supply up converter need to output at least 60v to charge my 16 cell lifepo with the signalab BMS balance regime. The charger switches off at about 60.5v then allows the BMS to take the high cells down and switches back on. The BMS also disconnects from the charger to balance in this way too.
Meanwhile at the solar charging station.
Been pretty good weather. Some sun and overcast weather mixed. I charger the 48v MP with 10ah about 30kms hard ride, and then I charged two bikes at once after they both went for a 12km ride then I went for another 12km on the mp. On the last charge the 12v inverter started to alarm low voltage.
So in normal Aussie weather 120 watt panels and a 90ah pack and charging during the day I can get about 60kms a day.
I must do some tests on one MP and log the exact KMS. This will take a day of focus on tests and I need something to measure the amps going out of the 12v solar SLAb.
-
lol dude I was joking !
Haha don't do that lol
What's this about a 90Ah pack? Is that your SLAb? (awesome pun there mate) Say 3 x 30Ah ?
haha AA batteries you must have flipped out
-
lol dude I was joking !
Haha don't do that lol
Or you were suggesting that I use a battery in series circuit with the charger to up the voltage to charge a single pack at higher volts, funny this scenario. As every cell you add in series to a charge supply takes down the voltage to the pack. more Resistance and now you would need even higher volts to charge through the added series cells.
Series and parallel charging circuits power need to originate from an isolated source..
I have not a BMS for the Snake Pie. Before I buy another Im going to try making one from these MPSA14 transistors. I had a little success building a shunt from a single Darlington pair transistor. Two of them cascading will improve the knee and efficiency.
These little MPSA14's can output 1.2 amps but the gate can draw too much at nominal cell voltage set like this. SO I'm thinking cascading them.
I will lose a little voltage at the gate voltage on the second level shunt but the gain is amazing on these transistors. So even if I can get 3v up to the second gate I can get a lot more current from the first drain to switch the second on hopefully giving me a very sharp shunt on off knee.
Hopefully I can make another circuit off the second transistor shunt to cut off the charger at 3.9v at any one of the series cell.
I tried using 3v relays for switching shunts and it was too hard to get rid of oscillations with the low voltage coils. The damned things had me looking for surge chokes to try stopping it, getting too complicated on a proto type level. But it can be done
-
lol dude I was joking !
Haha don't do that lol
What's this about a 90Ah pack? Is that your SLAb? (awesome pun there mate) Say 3 x 30Ah ?
Ohh and im using 7x24 AH SLA in oarallel. They are my old Ebike SLA's Haa two generations too. Some would no doubt be ok and not some so hot. But its not like I care if they are all the same AH as they would otherwise be recycled.
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2661.0;attach=3580;image)
The loss of capacity on an Ebike for SLA's is not always a good judge for there ability to provide power at lower C. 7 of these SLA's certainly can handle the 25 amps the inverter can suck down when running two charger.
I think the current draw may get too high when the volts drop over the pack running two chargers but we would only need two charger on sunny day rides with two bikes, So it all balances..
I did all that hard running on the SLAb I mentioned before yesterday.
Well im charging a single bike again, close to 3/4 finished. Its sunny with very frequent overcast periods. 5.6 ah I need and I am not concerned battery sitting at close to 12v on the really bad to read analogue volt meter.
-
Here is a night shot of the lights, hard to get a good shot to do it justice, but these are a good enough indication.
These lights here are running off the power from the pack. So these lights too are using sun power.
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2661.0;attach=3573;image)
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2661.0;attach=3575;image)
Still can't get over those lights lol they are fantastic !!
-
Yes the lights are great. I used one of those Renton DC to DC converters at 3.5v. The back red light works as soon as I switch the bike on and I short a series resistor through those brake switches you linked me to I got at Dealxtreme so they go way brighter when I hit the brakes.
I cant stand looking for batteries, charging them and fixing stupid torch things to handle bars, and the rest of what seemed to be an evolving long list of crap one need to do just to go for a ride at night. Winter is worse because you need to dress in heavy gear.
I love ridding at night in summer. I stick my anti-bug-in-eye safety eye protection glasses on and the cool summer night air is nice with a cool dry beer.
LOL drink and ride. :D Thats why I have two throttles so I can use either hand for my beer. Im learning to control the bike with my left hand thumb controller. Ha at 50 amps I was like almost falling off the seat trying to control it around round-abouts with my left hand. Well right hand signals are hard around a round-about.
I love being able to slip my thongs on and walking into where I park my bikes, I switch on my bike and lights and zoom off I go.
It couldnt be more simple.
The black MP bikes are good stealth at night. Quiet, I love how I can ride through my whole town on party night and you would be lucky to have three people notice you. Its usually the person on the sidewalk in a day dream that spots your bike, waiting out side a night club and you see them focus and pull the WTF is that face. Haha and by the time they hey look at that youre half way down the street. Even with the lights I don't seem to attract near as much attention as I did with the big clunky SLA job or the noisy dyno on the brushed bike.
Most see the bike coming from the front. The lil BMX brushed bikes are terrible at stealth. On party nights I get the wooot by the drunkards. Its almost like I made there night glorious riding past them.
-
I love being able to slip my thongs on and walking into where I park my bikes, I switch on my bike and lights and zoom off I go.
You wear a thong? Gawd how am I going to get that image out of my head!
Gary
-
bwahahaha lol I think theres is a slang translation issue there ;)
LOL Me and the wife took out our first ever ebikes on a much needed night out, we were drinking that absinthe alcohol, I think it's artificial.
I tried to play guitar and sing. Twang labrurlablah. 8) 8) 8) ??? ??? ???
That was about 2 years ago and we haven't let our hair down like that since.
It's good to see your 'letting your hair down' again mate :D
top work
-
I love being able to slip my thongs on and walking into where I park my bikes, I switch on my bike and lights and zoom off I go.
You wear a thong? Gawd how am I going to get that image out of my head!
(http://www.fatwallet.com/static/attachments/thumbnails/32034_borat_280_426010a.jpg)
That would definitely explain the following:
On party nights I get the wooot by the drunkards. Its almost like I made there night glorious riding past them.
It must be the sight of Leslie riding his bike wearing just a thong, especially if they catch a glimpse from behind as he rides past! ;D
Fortunately he no longer needs to stand up and pedal, and I'm guessing this was probably why the shunt modification was deemed necessary in the first place. ;)
Alan
-
I love being able to slip my thongs on and walking into where I park my bikes, I switch on my bike and lights and zoom off I go.
You wear a thong? Gawd how am I going to get that image out of my head!
Gary
Thongs are footwear wear in OZ and G-strings look great on our gals . So in Canada I heard the last time someone wore a G-string down the beach lost a digit from frost bite, and paramedics had to approach this person wearing full faced welding masks. Blinding I say.
And isnt Borat like the UK's national hero? Only our league players dress like that picture here in OZ but they tend to lean more towards wearing tutu's and makeup on the sports variety late night TV shows they appear in. Some of of the stuff I see them get into make Borat's G-string look almost OK in comparison.
Alan I remember a picture of your cat sleeping in the dish rack, and in the sink was a bottle of dish detergent called "Fairy", I could help but thinking a "fairy" had done the dishes that day fo
Erm
Never mind. :D