GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => General Discussions => Topic started by: timbizz on August 24, 2010, 12:53:52 AM
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i have a Magic Pie rear wheel 1000 watt with a internal controller.worked great for one day.then this problem started.turn on key 3 lights come on red green yellow turn throttle wheel starts to spin then stops lights go off and thats it . I checked battery volts 48 checked all connections I have a spare throttle I also checked as well .with no resolve can someone help.
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i checked battery volts 48 checked all connections I have a spare throttle I also checked as well.
Hi and(https://i.imgur.com/evDSMvT.png)to the forum Timbizz.
If you have a GM battery and you're only getting 48V, I would suggest you recharge it fully before testing again, because 48V is pretty low.
48V equates to only 3.69V per cell (48V/13cells) which is almost fully discharged (97%):
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2181.0;attach=2313;image)
After fully charging the battery, recheck its voltage, which should be around 54.6 volts fully charged (4.2V per cell), if the voltage is considerably lower than this, it could be that you have a charging problem.
If the voltage is correct, but the fault still persists, try and measure the battery output voltage while the fault is still apparent (while the battery indicator lights are still off).
Let us know what readings you get.
(http://www.arhservices.co.uk/GoldenMotor/emoticons/fingerscrossed.GIF)
Alan
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thank you for your reply I have been going crazy with this .only 48 volts after 6 hours on charger is all I am getting on the battery. I tested the charger output and got 51 to 54 volts what should the output voltage be
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thank you for your reply I have been going crazy with this .only 48 volts after 6 hours on charger is all I am getting on the battery. I tested the charger output and got 51 to 54 volts what should the output voltage be
Around 52v and it should charge to 56v then sit on 52v while still in float mode.
How is it going? You riding yet?
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If your charger has a switch to select the correct mains supply voltage, make sure it is set to the correct voltage.
If you only have 110V supply and the charger is set to 240 it will not be able to charge correctly.
Alan
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Thanks guys for your help.just got home from work and back to trouble shooting.now im looking at the charger I have model #hp8204l li-ion battery charger with red led on for power and when I plug the battery in led turns steady green right away but the battery voltage is only 48.4 volts. I opened battery messured voltage on input side with charger connected 45.9 I messured voltage from charger only with no battery 54.3 don't know why this is ?
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OMG I THINK I FIXED IT!!!!
On the back of the charger, you have a switch 230 for Europe and 115 for USA...
I had it on 230 the whole time, as soon as I changed it, the charger fliped from a green (done charging light) to a yellow light! now my volts jumped up to 49.5
Vapid had a HP8204L3 charger.
Have you checked your HP8204L charger for this switch yet?
Alan
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sorry , yes I checked the switch it is set for 110 volts
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Vapid had 53.1V on the 230V setting with 110V supply, which is similar to your 54.3V.
Try moving the switch to the other setting and see what happens, I'm just wondering if the switch has somehow been wired or fitted the wrong way around. It could be as simple as a dirty switch contact, and moving the switch a few times might help to clean the contacts.
Let us know if the charger output voltage drops, increases or stays the same.
Alan
P.S. Do not try this if you have 240V mains supply!
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tried moving switch back and forth even tried setting charger on 230v same output voltage
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tried moving switch back and forth even tried setting charger on 230v same output voltage
It looks like you may have a faulty charger. :(
If it came from a local dealer, contact them direct and see what their procedure is.
If it was purchased from GM in China, you will need to contact Tom (zhourenli@goldenmotor.com) and briefly explain that your new charger does not seem to have enough output to charge the 48V battery.
Alan
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thanks for your reply, Iwill contact tom about the charger. do you know of any other charger that would work. I would like to have 2 chargers for the bike . I looked at GM web site I didnt see a # or a way just to order the 48 volt charger alone
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I looked at GM web site I didnt see a # or a way just to order the 48 volt charger alone
I think you'll need to email sales@goldenmotor.com.
Tell them exactly what you want and where you live, they should be able to quote you a price.
Alan
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Thanks for all your help. I sent Tom an email about the charger.hope he gets back to me.I would buy a aftermarket charger if knows of one that will work just to get my e bike on the road.
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Thanks for all your help. I sent Tom an email about the charger.hope he gets back to me.I would buy a aftermarket charger if knows of one that will work just to get my e bike on the road.
I expect there are many chargers around that could be used to charge your 48V battery, but as GM have recently said that using a non GM battery will invalidate your motor's warranty ???, I wouldn't be too surprised if GM turn around and say that you will also invalidate your battery's warranty by using a non GM charger.
Hi all,
I know some of you have been suffering from a lack of response syndrome caused by us.
If you have:
1)No response within 5 working days.
2)To check whether your warranty claims are valid.
3)Issues with the MAGIC PIE or DUAL DRIVE.
4)A problem to complain about any forum member.
Please email me at yaoyuan@goldenmotor.com
(N.B. I must say first about those who have not bought a complete set from GM. If you have used GM batteries with other Motors and Controllers, your warranty claim will NOT be valid UNLESS it is a mechanical failure of the motor. If the PCB burns or FETS fail or anything of that sort, you must have used a complete GM kit, and proved that the failure is caused by something from GM, then you'll have a valid warranty claim and GM will replace/repair your product in the fastest way possible.)
You might want to check with Yao whether another charger can be used without invalidating your warranty.
Alan
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Thanks Alan for your reply .I will stick with a GM charger .I sent Tom an email about the carger problem but I did not give him my emall adress can he link from this form.Im still new to this form thing.
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You might want to check with Yao whether another charger can be used without invalidating your warranty.
Alan
Way back when this is what I sort of thought and as I always mixed and matched never asked for warranty. I always broke my gear learning its limitations within the warranty period anyways.
However.
Interesting that no charger and flat batteries for months = better battery maintenance for warranty. Vs get a charge into your pack while you wait. One could be just a claim on a charger the other, worst case scenario, a charger and a GM pack.
I bought my Pie and very soon after this warranty revelation became announced. Like I have to spend another $1000 for warranty. :o
What you suggest in the quote, that warranty is buy first and inquire latter.
Its obvious GM desire to separate themselves from the rest of the Ebike world and don't want to deal with people who say just want a stand alone GM battery or one of there big 10kw motors and use an different controller. Some peeps have already been using a 10kw controller better look else where before buying a GM 10kw motor. Is that what Yuan is suggesting.
And would using non gm products with gm products make the products fail more. This is something I would sincerely like to see.
Not very nice, spend $600 on a GM battery and no warranty because you own a 9c motor.
With this new warranty maybe GM shouldn't sell stand alone products at all unless required for replacement parts
This information should be put on the site near the product. EG GM replacement controller to be used only on GM products. See warranty policy Click here.
Click!
If you use GM products with any other device other than another GM product GM are not obliged to extend it 1 year conditional warranty to the customer.
Or something like this.
I for one, am sick of the word warranty, one could only imagine how GM feel about the word warranty.
What I want to see here at GM is endless posts of how members bikes are awesome, riders videos, colorful pictures of the truly nice builds from the plain jane to whack jobs. I am for the community to have a rich ebike experience. Mono culturing the GM look and experience would be so boring.
Anyway!
Kudos Alan for letting people know whats going down. Awareness is the important issue now I guess.
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I sent Tom an email about the carger problem but I did not give him my email address can he link from this form.Im still new to this form thing.
Tim, if you've sent an email, it will have been sent using your default email account so that when Tom responds, he will simply reply to the address from which the email was sent (your default email address). ;)
What you suggest in the quote, that warranty is buy first and inquire latter.
Kudos Alan for letting people know whats going down. Awareness is the important issue now I guess.
Leslie, if that first comment was aimed at me, I did not suggest "buy first and inquire later" I simply tried to point out what I thought could be a potential problem.
As far as "letting people know whats going down" I only quoted a recent post by Yao Yuan.
I do not have any inside information regarding this new warranty revelation, I was just reading between the lines and anticipating what other new conditions might be introduced.
As far as GM warranty is concerned, I could find only two references to it on the whole of the GM website (not including the forums):
It mentions in the comparison table (http://www.goldenmotor.com/magicpie/compare.html) that "Warranty: 1 Year, Upgradable to 2 Years." (but it doesn't indicate how to apply for for the second year upgrade!) and also in a pdf document for the Regenerative Controller (http://www.goldenmotor.com/e-Bike-DIY/Motor%20Phase%20Detection%20Procedures.pdf): " do not attempt to connect a controller to any other voltage than specified, it will damage it, create a hazard and void your warranty."
By default, the MagicPie or external cruise controller accepts versatile voltages from 24V to 60V. Programming a voltage is useful for low voltage cut-off to protect low battery.
I purchased a Magic Pie kit with a 12 month warranty, which I have run on 24, 36 and 48V SLA batteries, but is currently running on 7 or 14 cell LiPo packs, which are all within the "Up to 60V Max" specified by GM. As far as I am concerned, my motor is still covered under the 12 month warranty issued at the time of purchase, as there was no stipulation to only use GM batteries for warranty purposes when I purchased my kit.
If GM change their mind, and suddenly decide to impose additional restrictions/conditions to future warranties then it must be made clear prior to purchase.
From my point of view, it is not acceptable to try and impose new conditions to an existing warranty agreement that has already been offered and accepted!
(http://www.arhservices.co.uk/GoldenMotor/emoticons/9_small.GIF)
Alan
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Edit. Never mind.
I apologies. I could of wrote that comment more sensible.
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One week later new charger I still have a problem.plug in the new charger. red led for power is on the other led that should be yellow for charging is green.before I connected charger the battery voltage was 48.4 volts after 6 hours on charge the battery is now at 51.4 volts. can it be another bad charger.
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help NO response from GM I bought a second charger from GM in AZ I still have charging or battery problems I opened the battery to check for lose , broken or burnt connections , all looks good now im stuck
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The BMS lvc the controller.
This can happen on new batteries as sometimes they are out of balance.
You need to work the balancing up to an even capacity. One way is to leave the bike plugged into the charger for 72 hours.
If you can get 5 kms down the road after this, head down to the cheap store and get yourself an AC wall timer and plug it into your charger and set it to go on for 30 mins and off for 30 mins hook it up to your pack and let it turn the charger on and off for 12 hours. Then leave it on the charger for 12 hours. Take it for another spin this time a bit further, Do this for a week and keep the charger on the pack always when you don't use it..
Report back here if you have any luck as there are a few people want to know what happens.
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A good explaination as to why the timer may work for you is, When the charger is timed off it allow the high cells to settle and not get too hot and the low ones get another chance to get more capacity when the charger switches on. When max voltage hits at the charger some of the high cells maybe too high. The charger switches off again and the BMS bleeds the high cells down but not the low cells, the charger switches on again, the high cells are bled down and the low cells get yet another chance to catch up.
Heat is what damages batteries and the high cells get hot when they are full voltage or over. The timer never allows any cells to get hot enough even if it does go over the rated voltages.
On a really badly balanced pack you may want to even set the timer to turn the charger on and off for 30 min intervals for 3 hours then set the timer to do 15 minute intervals.
You can do this switch on and off for a 24 hours until the BMS does its job. The BMS will keep bleeding off the high cells until they are all high cells.
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thanks for your reply I will try. I have a time clock I can use.first I have to put the battery case back togeather. There is a contact on the bms that is not connected .it comes from the batery (-) to the bms marked B- . it looks like it should be connected but im not sure.I get 49.3 volts with no contact I get 51.2 when it makes contact?
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after serching the forum I have not seen any pictures showing the bms for a 48 volt battery to see if the b- is connected to the board
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just opened battery case found wires burnt inside now what!
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It looks like you will have to send another email to tom@goldenmotor.com and explain the fault as briefly as possible.
If you can attach a picture of the damaged wires, it might help.
Alan
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after serching the forum I have not seen any pictures showing the bms for a 48 volt battery to see if the b- is connected to the board
I realise it's probably a bit late now, but I have just found this picture of a 48V BMS:
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2143.0;attach=2216;image)
Alan
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thanks for the reply and the picture is great. when I opened the bat case I moved the white wires to the battery cells . flashed smoked the wires burned I had to cut all the wires to the cells, it would not stop burning untill I did so. e mailing to tom I don't think will help me now even if he did answer.
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follow up . got new battery, bike is working great now .a few adjustments still to do.just wanted to close this topic and thank everyone for all the help.