GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => General Discussions => Topic started by: Sangesf on April 10, 2010, 09:21:12 PM
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Well today I was riding my bike and the front motor (24v mini) all of a sudden started go full throttle for no reason. So, I turn off the motor, turn it back on and it beeps at me twice and now no longer turns..
I've looked at the manual for the magic controller and have tried every combination of brake/cruise button/throttle combination and nothing works... Just to check it out, I take my other controller and hook it up to that motor and nothing.. I hook up the original front controller to the back motor and nothing...
So, it looks like the controller and motor are screwed.. What do I do at this point?
P.S. I re-hooked up my rear controller and motor and it works fine.. It's just the front motor and controller, no longer work :(
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Frank, 2 beeps = Motor hall sensor fault (or confirmation during motor phase calibration).
A broken throttle ground wire or a poor connection in the ground circuit could cause full throttle.
It's possible that the controller could still be fine, and the reason the rear motor didn't run using the GM controller might be due to different phase settings.
If it hasn't been overheated, it could just be that one or more of the hall sensors has failed, but unfortunately the minimotors don't like running in sensorless mode as you cannot manually start them spinning like direct drive motors.
If you disconnect the hall sensors wires from the controller, and swap 2 of the phase wires over, you might be able to make the wheel motor run backwards in sensorless mode by spinning the wheel backwards and applying some throttle. If it runs backwards, this could be an indication that the controller has not failed.
It might be worth checking that you still have ~5V between the red hall sensors supply wire and the black ground wire, and then try and check for voltage variation between each of the hall sensor signal wires (Green, Blue and Yellow) and ground (Black) while slowly turning the wheel backwards.
If just one sensor has stopped working I would say it's just a sensor problem. If all three have failed, then it could be the result of an excessively high voltage being sent from the controller instead of the nicely regulated 5V.
To check the windings, compare the resistance readings between the disconnected phase wires, all three readings should be similar.
(Green - Blue, Blue - Yellow and Yellow - Green)
I don't know what else to suggest other than rechecking all the obvious connections between the hub and the controller.
Alan
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Alan,
The rear motor is currently using the same controller as the front. (I have two GM Magic controllers) that's why I tested the front controller on the back motor and the back controller on the front motor :)
So I know both the motor (front) and controller are non working.
How do I go about an exchange?
FYI... a small update.. I got the front wheel to move about 3mm once and only once (using my other controller and the rear motor connections) so I know both controller and motor are kaput! ;(
P.S. Even if it's only one or more hall sensors, the wheel is useless to me since the minimotor won't work in sensorless mode. (maybe that's something GM should make known abou the minis)
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How do I go about an exchange?
I have not needed any warranty replacements etc. but if you send an email to Tom (zhourenli@goldenmotor.com) containing the original order number and an explanation of what has happened, he will hopefully explain what needs to be done.
It might be worth contacting your local GM dealer (http://goldenmotor.com/contact/contact.html) to check what the normal warranty procedure is.
Alan
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The dealings I've previously had with both. "local" dealers have not gone well..
I would MUCH rather deal with GM Directly.
I tried what you said with swapping the phase wires on the "broken" controller (using all the rear motor stuff except for the phase/hall wires {obviously}) and nothing happened
then tried it with my other (rear) controller and I could hear the internals moving (however obviously the freewheel didn't let the wheel motor turn)
so still both controller and motor are non functional :(
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Using the controller I know is good I hooked up everthing except for the hall sensors to the front motor and checked if there is any voltage between the red and black hall sensors coming out of the motor and it read 0 volts...
Is that the correct way of what you said? Or do I have to hook up the halls to the controller and test again?
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Frank, the 5V supply to the hall sensors comes from the controller, not the hub, so you would need to have the hall sensors connected and the battery turned on in order to check the voltage being supplied to (and the varying output voltages coming from) the sensors.
With the front controller connected, it should supply ~5V to the Red hall sensor lead and the Red throttle lead.
A reading which is considerably higher than the expected 5V would indicate that the controller's 5V regulator circuit has failed, possibly resulting in damage to the sensors in both the hub and the throttle control, due to the excessively high voltage.
On the other hand, a reading of 0V would also confirm that the controller has failed.
I would not recommend plugging the good rear controller into the front hub, because if the sensors or wiring have become short circuited, you could risk damaging the good controller as well.
If the hub failed first, it may have caused the failure of the controller (and Vice Versa).
Alan
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This is the good thing about a reliable sensorless configuration and where new protections in the controllers like auto sensorless mode in the controllers may fail on a hub that is suspected to not support sensorless mode.
Bikemad, you posted before about the possibility of the mini motor not supporting sensorless mode. Can you discuss why this is so and possible ways you can think of around this limitation.
What happens to a mini motor and its controller when the Hall fails? Does the controller attempt to still run the motor?
Both stator and magnets in the minimotor are void of both freewheel and gears interfering with polarity and phase detection, do they not? Its only a problem with reverse.
On the theory of MCU failure to complete the algorithm instructions for induction monitoring and sensor timing to the IO latencies required by the faster geared motors I theorise this.
The motor should run up to a certain speed sensorless then logic processing (instructions per second) fail at the MCU, but its already switched to sensorless mode so no fail safe has been considered, the phase timing stumbles and just might generate enough resistances of each switching event between all phase channels, moving magnets yadayada to deliver serious spikes to the fets. The magic controller might have evolved out of the Mini motors range of compatibility.
Maybe the symptoms of timing failure should initiate a sub routine. Execution of a phase event should only be executed if certain parameters are met or a trigger IO event is high at a pin. A pin could be allocated to trigger a sub routine when a certain voltage is reached between source and ground. EG a voltage spike, I still have no idea what the software is doing inside the chip. But if the MCU is bogged down this may fail to make a difference.
This would be useless in a power failure event, as no power no software or even if the processor is overloaded, but for sensorless this idea could prove essential in the years to come. There be a hundred ways you could do this even in hardware. The old relay in the old controllers would not be even close to fast enough and solid state relays are bulky and can get hot.
I hope the engineers are paying attention to the few but random failures, 100 volt fets would certainly solve a lot of failures, but not everything.
The GM controller has become very advanced in many functions and possibly the most advanced ebike mainstream controller on the market. If I had these skills I would build my own controller now but I would aim for something much simpler and less challenging.
Honestly I'm in for some purchases this year and I keep ending back here. But I want to make the right choices for my daughter here to avoid her my problems. However as much as I like hacking this technology I want things to go smooth this time around.
Does the mini motor support sensorless mode or are there limitations, like it works ok at 24v?
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a second MCU kept charged by a large cap for fail safe, health monitoring operations may prove to be a forward move. If your going to turn these controllers into computers I say copy from the sucesses from others. Most computers these days have the BIOS separated from the software due to processor power limitation matched to variable user input damaging hardware, it's like don't depend on windows to monitor and control your fan speed, it may fail when you overload the cpu.
In this case the confines are not limited by the terrain or the way a person rides a bike. A single MCU with a finite roll yes and even be suitable for an ebike operations but some shut down mechanism needs to able to survive for regen in a circuit break event or MCU lockups or stack overload. Or even just by chance the MCU looses sync with phase timing.
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Bikemad, you posted before about the possibility of the mini motor not supporting sensorless mode. Can you discuss why this is so and possible ways you can think of around this limitation.
In sensorless mode, the motor usually needs a bit of a helping hand to start it spinning before the controller can take over properly. This is fine with direct drive, because as soon as you start pedalling, the motor starts turning, and presumably voltage pulses from the phase wires are picked up by the controller until it eventually realises what's happening and then starts to take over.
Because of the internal freewheel device inside some minimotors, the above does not happen. As the motor cannot be manually rotated in a forward direction, there are no pulses being generated for the controller to respond to.
If the controller could somehow be reprogrammed so that in sensorless mode it would send a pre-set series of phase pulses in the correct order, this would hopefully start the motor spinning as soon as the throttle is first operated (but only if pulses were not already being received). I expect you would still need to pedal the bike slightly to remove any driving load from the motor until it is able to start running correctly by itself.
As I have no experience with programming speed controllers, I don't know how feasible it would be to implement this idea.
I hope some of this actually makes sense to you.
Alan
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Ah I see. Thank you for your reply.
Yes I consider that in sensorless mode 0 start take off isnt off the board but in some cases it doesn't happen but in the mini motor there is every chance this will never happen.
As Ive said before when I cut off 20 (cutting shunt) amps to my hub it stopped the coils from any saturation allowing the sensorless to work correctly no pedals, take offs required no pedaling at all, with a direct that is. Maybe things might improve with the mini motor if current was limited to 12 amps, the mini motor and magic controller are david and Goliath at times.. The fets in that baby are 120 amps each.
When I went to 60v saturation started setting in again the take offs became a little iffy. Occasionally needing to move her a little.
Other things Ive noted is low voltage and SLA slumps can play up with sensorless functions.
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Though the magic controller could take a 7mm short coil beasty stator, going higher volts seems a waste and a lot more internal resistance to deal with in packs.
Oh my god at 60v my old SLA has some internal resistance working against me. Im thinking going low volts high AH and chunky short windings is the way to go.
Larger AH batteries have lower internal resistance and less cells have lower internal resistance and so does a motor wound for lower volts.
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Got an email back from Tom...
Basically I'm screwed....
The only warranty these for a year, so I'm stuck with a dead wheel/motor.
I spent over $300 and got a motor that only lasts a year, that just SUCKS!
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Got an email back from Tom...
Basically I'm screwed....
The only warranty these for a year, so I'm stuck with a dead wheel/motor.
I spent over $300 and got a motor that only lasts a year, that just SUCKS!
Youre not screwed yet. Far from it. You will probably find your motor and controller is fine.
If not there are ways to remedy this easy.
You need to get service now.
When you get full throtte this means the connection has failed. This make this is sound and take out every possibility one by one.
Ok youve checked all that.
There was a thread with one good guy who locked up the free wheel on his bafang and got sensorless on a geared free wheel working fine.
Consider these things. They may be hard to obtain and do at first because there is no Ebike service centre down the road. So it can only be up to you or pay for repairs. Would be cheaper to work it out yourself.
The more you look for ways around your obsticals the clearer the path should be over more time.
Yes it sucks. I felt like you did when 2 weeks and my hub was fudged after my bike fell over on gravel and mundged my wires. I blew controllers from faulty connections' and blew chargers up from reading wire colours and I had my probes on the wrong polarity doh.
Honestly you have done well if you done a year with no problems. We just need to figure out a way to get your motor working with two beeps.
Keep in there dude.
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Well, I need to know how to lock the free wheel on the motor and ok, that'll fix that....
The controller is hosed tho... so I need to get a replacement one.
Will TRY to get a replacement one through my "local" GM dealer, but they've already sent me a bad one before, which I needed to get replaced and that took me two weeks after having to call GM directly in China to get the local dealer to send me a replacement unit.
FUN, FUN, FUN....
NOT
So, where do I find a way to lock the free wheel?
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You don't have to any of this. I don't want to put you through a GM repair job for no reason.
Locking the freewheel may help if your controller is still working and may make the bike more reliable when you get it running. But you then have the gears always engaged. The gears will wear out more. I will remind you this was a bafang motror that was discussed.
With every alteration there may be a consequence when you decide to leap from the nest and get your hands dirty. Electric things go smoke fizz pop. You still have a good battery, don't you? so make sure you don't go down 3 strike lane.
Anything you can learn will be an asset to the EV community world wide.
A lot of our language are not used as household words, and there is no ebike repair shop up the road. Every person that joins this fleet of ebikers that balance electrons to make wheels go make the industry. I guess we end up ebike mechanics or our ride gathers dust in the shed evermore.
A trip down to the local bike store for a repair often leaves the customer nowhere. Thats the reality check when the bike goes fizz for many of us. You are entering a specialist field of mechanics and you, we, are the recruits.
Great Bikemad post below may help you learn more about the mini.
Trying to explain how a mini geared hub actually works is not going to be very easy, but I'm going to do my best with the aid of these lovely photos that Russell (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=profile;u=9603) has conveniently posted on the Endless-Sphere forum, and I'm sure he won't mind his pictures being put to good use. ;)
(http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=29487)
Let's start with the basics:
The stator (containing windings and hall sensors) is permanently fixed to the axle and does not move.
The outer drum of the motor contains a ring of permanent magnets securely attached to its inner surface surrounding the stator.
This drum has a small gear attached to the opposite side (see picture below) and the whole assembly is mounted to the axle by a bearing inside the gear, which allows the whole drum assembly to freely rotate around the fixed axle when power is applied to the windings via the controller.
(http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=29439)
The stator, axle and drum assembly above make up the basic motor unit.
So we have a motor that can spin freely, but it still needs to transmit its power to the hub and produce enough torque to turn the wheel and drive the bike.
This is cleverly achieved by the use of an epicyclic gear train, which provides a gear reduction between the motor and the hub, which greatly increases the torque (turning force) at the wheel.
The following two pictures show both sides of the intermediate gears (known as the Planet Gears) which are driven by the motor's small gear (the Sun Gear) and are mounted on a unidirectional clutch (a special type of ratchetless freewheel), which is secured onto the axle with a key and slot to prevent the centre piece from turning.
The clutch is very simple and comprises of three cylindrical rollers which are gently held by springs into the narrow end of a wedge shaped opening.
If the gear carrier in the first picture below is turned clockwise, it wedges the rollers between the carrier ring and the centre of the clutch, which effectively causes the carrier to become fixed in relation to the axle and will allow the rotational force to be transmitted between the motor and the hub.
This automatic locking action occurs whenever the motor tries to turn the wheel.
If the carrier is rotated the opposite way, the rollers will simply roll towards the larger end of the wedge shaped opening until the slight spring pressure prevents the friction from pushing the rollers any further.
As they are no longer wedged in, they are unable to transmit any load using the surface friction alone and the rollers will simply slip easily around the centre of the clutch, producing a noiseless and almost frictionless free-wheeling action.
This is how the hub manages to rotate easily, as it does so without having to turn against the resistance of the motor.
(http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=30108)
The picture below shows the side which faces towards the motor unit.
(http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=29434)
The outer gear (Ring Gear) is permanently fixed to the inside of the hub, and this allows the drive to be transmitted to the hub itself.
(http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=29437)
Now have a look at the following diagram and imagine your looking at the wheel from the left hand side.
The small gear in the middle is the motor, which only rotates clockwise when viewed from this side.
The three planet wheels are fixed to the carrier which is only free to rotate anticlockwise, as it will be fixed in relation to the axle when the motor tries to turn it clockwise.
This allows the hub to be driven anticlockwise (forward wheel rotation) by the motor.
If the motor is stopped and the wheel is moving in a forward direction, the hubs outer ring gear will try to turn the three planet gears anticlockwise around the stationary sun gear (it's stationary because the motor is stopped).
The free-wheeling action of the clutch allows the carrier to be freely turned in an anticlockwise direction with very little resistance.
So when you're pedalling without motor assistance, the planet gears will still be rotating, but as there is very little resistance, you're not usually aware of it.
(http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/gears-planet2.gif)
The actual gear ratio is determined by the number of teeth on the sun wheel and the number of teeth on the ring gear.
So for example, if you had 9 teeth on the motor and 90 teeth on the hub you would have a 10:1 speed reduction and a 10x increase in torque!
Frank,
As Muzza and Russell have already mentioned, the motor will spin in reverse, but will not transmit any drive due to the unidirectional clutch in the centre of the gear carrier assembly, which is also why regen doesn't work with these motors.
If you were to fit the wheel backwards, the motor would not be able to drive the bike in a forward direction, but you should have very good regen! :D
It's just that it won't be much use as a hubmotor if you can only use it for going backwards and regen!
Alan
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So, where do I find a way to lock the free wheel?
This is the way Russell did it:
View Russells post on Endless Sphere. (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=10458&start=45#p212576)
Alan
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So, where do I find a way to lock the free wheel?
This is the way Russell did it:
View Russells post on Endless Sphere. (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=10458&start=45#p212576)
Alan
Excellent. LOL JB weld seemed like a quick fix. Correct me here but do the rollers lock when hub is operational under load? Would it be prudent to just push some bamboo or something into the rollers and keep them locked. The pressure required would only be very small.
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So open up the hub and just be jb weld everywhere?
How do I open it up...
I can see the screws on one side opened those up and am able to take the motor out of the hub, now I just have to figure out how to get the "outside edge" cover to come off.
What about 317537s answer.. Jamming something in those roller spaces?
Side note: I sent an email to both USA GM retailers asking about a replacement for my currently purchased (3 mos ago) magic controller replacement and still have not recieved a reply.
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Yeah hold the brakes on my idea.
I don't and never have owned on of these. It was an idea I got by looking at the pics.
The force to hold the rollers in shouldn't need to be so robust IMO, and it would be wise to think about a few ways to do this.
Look around the home, toys and old tools bits and pieces.
It would be good to make your mod un-do-able too. SO if you want to reagain the free wheel function you can. You may Funct the the function.
Something reliable.
Bamboo is an excellent material. It compresses, re-expands to fill holes up, wont scratch and can be removed. You can use it to hold copper into their slots for motor coils and thats where I got the idea from.
Try to preserve the springs too.
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BTW the motor should roll OK like any GM motor would.
But expect changes.
The gears will be engaged all the time and you may find a little resistance to spinning the motor up when pedalling with take offs, but it may help hold a steady momentum once you're going, , so your size wheel may need to be 26", as 20" and smaller will cause the motor to rev too hard when you want to pedal. Disable regen because we don't know what the added torque will do to the gears.
Being able to reprogram the controllers regen amount may be worth a look.
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BTW the motor should roll OK like any GM motor would.
But expect changes.
The gears will be engaged all the time and you may find a little resistance to spinning the motor up when pedalling with take offs, but it may help hold a steady momentum once you're going, , so your size wheel may need to be 26", as 20" and smaller will cause the motor to rev too hard when you want to pedal. Disable regen because we don't know what the added torque will do to the gears.
Being able to reprogram the controllers regen amount may be worth a look.
don't have a programable controller, as I have not gotten a response from my waaranty replacement email
I will NEVER have to pedal ( well almostnever) because I have the othe motor on there too, so that's not an issue.
Also, how do I disable regen on the (if I ever get it) replacement controller?
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Do you want to avoid warranty go ahead.
I avoid mine almost 3 days after I get my gear. I have special needs. I test it when I get it and if its DOA I send it back at my charge. If it works, some times it will sit on my shelf for 6 mths, Like a spare.
I always buy a spare motor. Its just makes these problems way less hassle. I can test if I have a DOA hub or controller.
I would ask the warranty officer permission to investigate the failure under his instructions and provide photos.
I would offer to make my own repairs for hall failure.
I would only expect a return if the windings were broken on arrival.
In this case I would offer to pay for the return and ask to keep it instead for parts. I would want my replacement hub sent and delivery paid by GM.
But that's meeeee :D
LOL
However warranty is a hard ask over a couple of hall sensors. But it not cost effective.
First thing.
Before you do anything, are you sure the controller is working?
We have tested the hall sensors, and we are absolutely sure there is a failure?
We get the two beeps indicating this. Right?
And!
Its connected properly?
So we can gather if we lock the freewheel we will not need hall sensors to operate your motor.
This can be a liberating experience. Providing the windings are sound you will never have motor failure again.
Count on this part to live a long time and don't overload or overvolt more than 40v.
Once this mod is done anything else is one part easier to get going,
You have a good battery and possibly a good controller.
Good luck if you proceed. and god speed.
Edit:
I believe your might be the first to do this on a GM mini motor and GM controller combination. So you're the man. :-\
How are you going to do it?
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Have you tested all the wires to and from the throttle, hall sensor phase and power wires?
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And if youre bothered to jam the wheel freewheel why not just replace the hall sensors anyway.
They are only a few dollars if that!
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And if youre bothered to jam the wheel freewheel why not just replace the hall sensors anyway.
They are only a few dollars if that!
I'm talking about warranty replacement of the CONTROLLER.
I'm convinced the controller malfunctioned and created the fault that kill the hall sensors in the motor.
Why replace a hall sensor? If it fails again, I don't want to open up the motor AGAIN. If I can just lock the freewheel, that will be good enough.
(not all of us have hundreds of extra dollars to purchase spare parts)
I don't think it should be a huge task to just ask for a replacement on an obviously faulty product.
(please read all my responses in this thread to see why I KNOW FOR A FACT that my controller is bad too.
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The manufacturer of the hall sensor puts out a warning not to rely upon them for.
Why expect a person to give warranty on a part that even its maker states are not reliable.
Warning.
These products are NOT suitable for protection
against personal injury.
To AVOID personal injury or death, DO NOT
USE these products as emergency stop or safety
devices, or in any other application where human
safety is at risk.
http://www.honeywell-sensor.com.cn/prodinfo/magnetic_position/installation/p88781_2.pdf (http://www.honeywell-sensor.com.cn/prodinfo/magnetic_position/installation/p88781_2.pdf)
Its the nature of the device.
They can work for years and on a hot day up a hill pop. They can last for days.
I myself is waiting for the day they are either rid of in phase detection or a motor designed for easy access and replacement.
I was going to buy a mini motor but these hall sensor blues have steered me to the Pie.
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Look Im sorry you're in this position but if you ask around the crew many have been where you are and worse.
Here is one bike shop offering a pretty weak warranty by the look of the fine print.
+) only if installed by JVBike
Crystalyte components and parts not installed by JV Bike have 7 days exchange warranty for items that are result of the manufacturing defect; incorrectly connected, or obviously abused components are not warranted; returns are accepted in 15 days for items that are in brand new condition; there is 20% re-stocking fee
20% restocking fee???
This is synonymous to many retail outlets that deal in Crystalyte parts.
Yet at the Crystalyte web site it states this.
// Warranties:
- Motors, controllers, throttles etc except batteries: One-year warranty by Crystalyte
- Batteries: One-year warranty by the manufacturers of the batteries
Sweeeet. but if you read the first part of the page. It reads this.
General purchase information :
?
// Crystalyte cannot accept orders under USD5000.00
We are very sorry but we cannot accept orders under $5000.00 USD as it is not cost effective for us to process. Please feel free to contact any of our knowledgeable and courteous distributors for any information you may need on our quality Crystalyte product line.
Got $5000
Somewhere in all the confusion people end up repairing their own hall sensors.
To return the hub to china often ends up more costly than the motor itself.
See what happens is when the motor fails the seller and user get together and try to fix it to avoid much expense. The Chinese Ebike industry would fold and die if everyone had to send whole hubs back for a replacement hall sensor.
Both customer and dealer make every effort to repair the problems before coughing up another shipping fee. Its this respect the EV industry services upon.
I too wish I could go to Repco auto store and get all my Ebike motor parts or pay the mechanic at the service station to order the parts in and fix it for me, but this isnt a reality in the EV industry just yet.
We are the mechanics in this industry, unless you know someone that does ebike repairs.
This is the way of the Ebiker. This whole forum and its people here are dedicated to help you through this.
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And if youre bothered to jam the wheel freewheel why not just replace the hall sensors anyway.
They are only a few dollars if that!
I'm talking about warranty replacement of the CONTROLLER.
I'm convinced the controller malfunctioned and created the fault that kill the hall sensors in the motor.
Why replace a hall sensor? If it fails again, I don't want to open up the motor AGAIN. If I can just lock the freewheel, that will be good enough.
(not all of us have hundreds of extra dollars to purchase spare parts)
I don't think it should be a huge task to just ask for a replacement on an obviously faulty product.
(please read all my responses in this thread to see why I KNOW FOR A FACT that my controller is bad too.
It would of been the hall sensor failure then the controller.
Here is how I would handle this.
Email tom and inquire about repairing the hub to avoid expensive returns.
Inquire about getting a replacement controller.
With the GM go ahead and instructions, Make sure you repair the hub before you use a new controller.
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I'm going to run with this thread. Because its not going to go away. But there is much important sharing to be done.
The thing is, sensorless is the holy grail of BLDC.
But its being developed as we speak. Its sad but the BLDC motor needs more development, whiile some achieve a good balance in motor performance and efficiency other fall outside of the what sensorless technology provides.
We have been stuck with the bloody thing failing in some of the less ideal situation and we for years were stuck with noisy brushes or unreliable novle IC's.
Whether hall failure mode is 100% up to actually protecting the circuit
Changing the things becomes arduous. Every step, method, and material used putting them in must make a difference.
Look, on the grounds of locking the free wheel to run sensorless I can not guarantee anything good will come of it. But I would give it a try to avoid any possible problems.
100v fets, senorless, proper connections, proper current, voltage assemblies eg coil composure to duty cycle to voltage, amps balancing has been working well for me.
I just need to get rid of about 27kgs and get a lithium battery.
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Have sent emails to Tom, GMUSA, west edge bikes..
Received a response for my controller and they're (GMUSA, NOT westedge) sending one out a replacement one.
Thank you.
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Ok, I finally was able to open up both sides of the GM mini motor, but I still can't find a way to take the "core" out of it, to get to the freewheeling mechanism..
Anyone know how to take the core part out?