Author Topic: What kind of bike is good for conversion  (Read 5223 times)

Offline Manu

  • New Member
  • *
  • Posts: 11
What kind of bike is good for conversion
« on: October 03, 2007, 08:37:15 AM »
I'm new to this. I don't have a bike yet but I'll probably be buying one at these all-terrain Firefox bikes very soon. So I want to know what should I look for while buying the bike I'd like to convert.

Mainly, I'm confused about whether I shd go for alloy wheels or not since the front wheel would be discarded. Gears? How many? I'd like to have disc brakes but front disc brakes would probably be incompatible with the hub motor. What kind of front suspensions are recommended?

All comments/ suggestions are welcome.

Offline myelectricbike

  • PhD. Magic
  • ******
  • Posts: 644
    • How to Build an Electric Bike
Re: What kind of bike is good for conversion
« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2007, 10:40:46 AM »
You may find some answers by starting here.

In general steel hangers (and now I recommend a torque arm even with steel hangers and forks or steel dropouts) are a must. Golden uses Giant bikes for the conversions it does at the factory and my first conversion was on a bike with and oversized frame.

I'd go for extra strength all the way round due to the extra weight and power a motor brings into play.
« Last Edit: October 03, 2007, 10:42:28 AM by myelectricbike »

Offline Manu

  • New Member
  • *
  • Posts: 11
Re: What kind of bike is good for conversion
« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2007, 05:46:37 AM »
Myelectricbike, would you call this Firefox Tempest a good bike to convert? It's got alloy frame, rims and crank. Everything else is steel.

Other bikes I'm considering: Axis and Fusion.

Offline myelectricbike

  • PhD. Magic
  • ******
  • Posts: 644
    • How to Build an Electric Bike
Re: What kind of bike is good for conversion
« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2007, 08:42:35 AM »
The best source for an answer to your question is Firefox itself. Only they know their intimate specs such as the grade of steel and allow hardness and under paint dimensions. The steel used for my MTB hangers is mild and 4mm thick and has finally opened up from the torque produce by the HBS-36 motor. I'm going overboard on the fix with a 10mm closed hole torque arm where a 6mm closed hole might do. I would also avoid alloy forks altogether, even with a torque arm long enough to reach the headset.