Author Topic: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.  (Read 31972 times)

Offline Leslie

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #30 on: October 31, 2010, 02:41:09 AM »
Well Well.

 :(

I got some pics of the setup but I wanted to be 2500 watts before I took the pic of the CA. Damed I was so close.

I so wanted to clean up the cords on this controller and drilled into its plastic case thinking I will be careful huh? then grzzchchch.  I drilled right through the project box and then into the board.

I hate drilling and grinding and stuff..

OMFG.  LOL

I cleaned off at least 4 SM diodes, and gouged out 4 five micro tracks.  The damage is repairable with a magnifying glass.  And they are just diodes so value may not be important..

I get some pics of it soon.

The thing is my box is all lonely now, Ive got an external hub now at least.  Im thinking of putting another MC in this box.  But I will take the opportunity to finish the box with the failed controller and try to repair it.

Bike two is taking a little bit longer.

« Last Edit: October 31, 2010, 03:28:33 AM by 317537 »

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Offline MonkeyMagic

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #31 on: October 31, 2010, 06:30:23 AM »
Ok so scratch my last post!! I'm fully informed now..
Geez Les, so sorry to hear; that sounds like some of my luck you had there!

I know your determination will most definitely resolve this problem, and lets hope soon :)

And by no means trying to give you any instruction but here is a few things you may or may not have in your tool set and may want in a shopping list..

Bunnings:
Ozito 210W Drill with depth -$35
Or - about $90-$120 for a entry bench drill, get a mini chuck for pcb size drill bits

Then from there or any crafts shop etc. a good set of strong razor blades in various shapes. Assuming you are using Jaycar or Altronics/DSE project boxes, being mostly ABS they are really easy to work with razors.

I do all of my holes with a pin first, then round the hole out slowly with a small razor until it is perfect.

One thing I have always wanted (apart from a PCB CNC machine!) is one of these:
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TD2130&keywords=taper&form=KEYWORD

Have no clue why I have not bought one before! But further searches reveal this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TAPERED-REAMER-SET-2PCE-BRAND-NEW-REAM-ALIGN-ENLARGE-/250719125509?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a60064005

Very handy....

:D

Offline Leslie

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #32 on: October 31, 2010, 07:45:45 AM »
And If I took all that money I could buy a bicycle to put it all on.


Honestly Monkey if I had removed it all like I thought I should it would be all good,

I think Im going to get a 72v 12 fet controller with no LVC.

I can still try fix the MP controller, but I can use it for parts.

The 72v controller I want can do 45 amps, I will do an all volt mod to it.  Ha then I can just add individual cells or a turbo series of A123, heck even an SLA that can do 50 amps, that will certainly make an interesting chat.


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Offline Leslie

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #33 on: October 31, 2010, 09:33:35 AM »
This how it looked before the disaster.  All I needed to do is tidy the cables and put a hole in the box and lid put a lid on it.



« Last Edit: October 31, 2010, 09:36:56 AM by 317537 »

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Offline GM Canada

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #34 on: November 01, 2010, 02:52:23 AM »
I so wanted to clean up the cords on this controller and drilled into its plastic case thinking I will be careful huh? then grzzchchch.  I drilled right through the project box and then into the board.

Oh NO! OMG! Wow what a frustrating thing to happen. I really feel for your frustration on that one. If you do consider another GM Controller, I do have one of the gold external controllers. I could get it to you in 6 to 10 days. I don't know anything about it, But i'm sure in your hands you would be able to finally discover the difference between the gold and silver controllers. I was saving it for myself, but I am quite happy with my bike as is. I never thought I would offer to part with it, but who could use one more then you. Anyway If you already have you eyes set on something else, I understand.

Really sorry to hear about the drilling incident!

Gary

Offline Dummy Dave

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #35 on: November 01, 2010, 06:14:24 AM »

I so wanted to clean up the cords on this controller and drilled into its plastic case thinking I will be careful huh? then grzzchchch.  I drilled right through the project box and then into the board.

I hate drilling and grinding and stuff..


Ouch!  I felt that!  Not sure I'd go for Monkey's machine shop, but I do like to wrap tape around the drill shank to indicate how deep I intend to go.  I use a cheap roll of colored electrical phase marking tape.  A few good, tight wraps will make a ridge to help stop you. (unless pushing like you're really determined) ;)


Offline MonkeyMagic

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #36 on: November 01, 2010, 08:39:22 AM »
Geez way to slap Monkey in the face lol
Ok so without the drill the tapered reamers are great anyways.

I just bought a pair from the bay. And no I don't have a 'machine shop' haha those tools I recommended were cheap as.

Valy has a machine shop.... Now that's some gear I wish I had my hands on!  I'm picturing him building a custom frame now with in-built controller and battery mounts etc... So jealous!

MM








Offline Dummy Dave

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #37 on: November 01, 2010, 05:49:50 PM »
Geez way to slap Monkey in the face lol

MM


Oh, sorry there, mate!
If I'd known I was gonna hit ya, I could'a put a little more into it. ;)


Offline MonkeyMagic

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #38 on: November 01, 2010, 07:16:51 PM »
watch it, I have a cloud that gets pretty angry hehe

Offline Leslie

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #39 on: November 01, 2010, 09:37:30 PM »
You guys have me worried.  I sort of feel, UMMM a Monkey Magic and a Dummy Dave to save me.          

The things I can do with a roll sticky tape amazes me.  In the end I just taped it all up with a big roll of stretchy duct tape, put a rubber hood over it.  Its done.

Bike no.1 is now completed...

Haaaa as for my bike light, after reading endless reviews on deal extreme for bike torch holders they all seemed to not mesure up. The bike torch is secured to a hose clamp with electrical tape.  Fast, cheap reliable and easy.  OMG it worked so good I have to put two torches on this way..

Yes my bike is held to together plastic tape and plastic ties, and I bet my gallery pics come up looking good too.   If anything, sewing leather might be a more paractical skill to learn.    
« Last Edit: November 01, 2010, 09:39:31 PM by 317537 »

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Offline GM Canada

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #40 on: November 01, 2010, 09:58:25 PM »
You guys have me worried.  I sort of feel, UMMM a Monkey Magic and a Dummy Dave to save me.          


I'll save ya! Duh ta da da! It's a bird, it's a plane no its...


Offline Leslie

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #41 on: November 01, 2010, 10:21:57 PM »
I so wanted to clean up the cords on this controller and drilled into its plastic case thinking I will be careful huh? then grzzchchch.  I drilled right through the project box and then into the board.

Oh NO! OMG! Wow what a frustrating thing to happen. I really feel for your frustration on that one. If you do consider another GM Controller, I do have one of the gold external controllers. I could get it to you in 6 to 10 days. I don't know anything about it, But i'm sure in your hands you would be able to finally discover the difference between the gold and silver controllers. I was saving it for myself, but I am quite happy with my bike as is. I never thought I would offer to part with it, but who could use one more then you. Anyway If you already have you eyes set on something else, I understand.

Really sorry to hear about the drilling incident!

Gary

Yes I want to replace the controller as I spent a bit of time doing this controllern box with a big heat sink and all.

But rather me spend all my money on things that will get me a working kit, at this moment, Id be best to get a bike to put this kit onto.


Here is my problem.  Every time I have kit no.2 ready to install there is nothing to install it on.  In fact I just keep swapping my two kits until eventually human error will prevail and I risk loosing both kits if this swapping wheels keeps up.


I should finish one bike and leave it alone to finish bike two. I last bought two HBS GM kits, one for a spare.  Having two kits always has had me at least one bike on the road on most bad days.

Hold the gold controller for a few weeks Gary until I get this second MP on new bike.  

Some things ive been thinking of could be better than the circular clips GM use.  The freewheel gear side bearing is made to slip on over the axle.  I was thinking of using a washer as a spacer on the inside of the bearing.  It seems that the gear side bearing protrudes from its seat in its default posistion where I could use a spacer and have the bearing push right into its seat and have the side plate hold the bearings and hub sturdy.

The bearing protrudes about 5mm so a single washer and or a thinner inside between the stator base and gear side bearing might just make this hub solid without using circlips.  Then one sould use electircal tape and heat shrink wrap the cables into place.

I have some pics to show how well the tape can hold the wire into place.  If you stretch the tape tights it goes hard.

Both of my wheels are pretty solid just the same, but If I want to push the motors uses to infinity and beyond its design some things should be easy to improve,

Like you could get the MP to handle 25 percent more heat if you were to increase air flow inside the motor.  One could attatch some aluminium edging inside the motor to act as a fan.  The wattage ability of such a motor would return good efficiency for long and frequent heavy loading



« Last Edit: November 01, 2010, 10:26:24 PM by 317537 »

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Offline Andrew

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #42 on: November 04, 2010, 07:52:37 PM »
Leslie,

 What an absolutely awesome read. i've only just got around to reading the full thread and am truely impressed with the results you got from bike number 1.  It amazing that you've unlocked the magic controller so sucessfully.  You've got the controller doing what in theory it should do already. It's just great that you can now tweek the current and voltage parameters for a proper wide range of uses and limits.

The second bike at present goes over my head a little bit - but i'm learning more all the time ;D


Hats off to ya Fella!   8)

Andrew

Offline GM Canada

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #43 on: November 05, 2010, 12:26:09 PM »

Hold the gold controller for a few weeks Gary until I get this second MP on new bike.


Consider it on hold. I was thinking of switching one of my motors to an external one. Since I have 2 Cycle Analyst's running on my bike I could get some real time data and see what the difference is, If any. I was considering using the gold controller, but then I would not know if the differences would be of any use if im not using a standard controller.

I do have a few other things on the table, but I'm hoping to swap my front motor to external this weekend.

Gary

Offline Leslie

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Re: Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.
« Reply #44 on: November 05, 2010, 12:35:08 PM »
Why thank you Andrew.

Stayt tuned for some Pics of my bike.  I still have a fully working bike running 30 amps max.  I finished the light system.  2 X 3 watt torches and a P7 10 watt glued to a big heat sink.

The light system runs off a 53v to 3.5v DC to DC converter and runs 16 watt worth of Leds and only consumes 20 watts of power. It has a back red brake light that gets brighter when the brakes are actiavted. The 2 x 3 watt torches work as conventional head lights and the P7 10 watter is set for higher beam. Un-bloody-Real  All I need do is switch on the bike and at night switch the lights on too.  When I get on the bike to ride it feels like getting into a warm cosy bed on a rainy night.  Everything I need bar the rear view mirror is there.


Bike no.2 has beeen put on laybuy.



A DiamondBack FS dual disk brake aluminium MtB.  Im going to risk using an alloy frame to get the weight down.  Ive seen the bike and read some reviews it looks to be strong enough for the job.

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