Modify internal controller to operate properly with software.

[Leslie]

Ok the controller voltage is set to 48v and results for the 10 amp shunt mod in respect of better management,.

Peak current set to 27 amps.
Actuall max current 23 amps.

Constant current set to 13 amps,
Actual constant current 17 amps.

Full scale speed 41.4kph

Seem as long as the shunt over passes the required current the software can take over.

This is closer to what I imagine.  The bike still accelerates off the mark fast enough.  Shall test efficiency tomorrow,

[Leslie]

The irony is, is my bike is now set to do no more or less than it was from the box, 17 amps cont and 23 amps max, however the difference the Mod has made, is, I get much more power from 0kph and the same at 42kph.

I consume more watts initially.  It's like I squeeze the torque out of the thing rather than just allow the torque to appear.

I do believe on more than a 20 amp shunt would be needed to get better off the mark response.  It would get to a point, low shunt resistance at slow RPM may place to much stress on the fets for any benifits to be gleened.

Im going to get 40 amps max and 20 amps cont and make it live for a long time from my internal controller made external with MP no.2.  


crosses fingers I don't mess it all up.

[Leslie]

Yes so in conclusion to this MOD is.

Only use a shunt of a resistance you can know to be correct.  The tools one needs to test a shunt can be a little pricey, so I used and old GM controller shunt and I really winged it.

Be sure to set your max amps down in the software and if your using the 24v setting for pulse power you best set it to 48v with this Mod.



I not touch anything else. Unless there is a dry solder joint, I don't do anything else to the controller.  I just stick the shunt in like the picture check the board for solder splatter and close the motor back up, set and test.

The GM connectors. Match the arrows as close as you can and its good.  

[Leslie]

I just did a heavy load test.

I dragged back a over $200 worth of groceries.  It was slow off the mark but with trailer full good speed was attainable.  I drew 24 amps max.  Again for trailing a lot of the torque was mid to top speed.

Was great once I got on the cane fields. Powered up my hills under a heavy load at approx 35kph  I used 4.2 ah.  Very good on economy for hauling up hills.

It was a mid temperature day and the motor was a little warmish after a minute of resting.

I managed to get some gear to make the other hub controller external and I will fix the sharp cable hole.

I have a massive heat sink.  2 X 60 amp polarized latching relays.  A new DC to DC converter, two Anderson connectors, some good phase cable, a six pin plug connector for the hall wires and a temp probe wire for future installation, and a project box to make it all work.

[MonkeyMagic]

yeehaw !!!!!

good on you man I'm loving this MP data spilling out of you !

top stuff

[Leslie]

Well Im still riding around on MP no.1 its been awesome.


MP no.2 has had its controller removed and the cable insulator damage was a lot worse than I thought.

Any way I think this controller still works.

Ive run phase cables from the hub and a usb cord I has laying aroud is soldered to the hall sensors.

I resoldered the three phase cables and made sure every winding end was fully stripped of its enamel before I soldered the windings.

I used the axel circlip that was cutting into the cable on the other side of the bearing so the bearing has two circlips holding it still and now the bearing is solid.

Where the cable runs anong the axel Ive used multiple layers of both electrical tape and heet shrink to keep the cable fastened into the slot.

I rounded the axle cable moat where the cable sits in and comes out of the hub, so it can not cut into the cable anymore.

Ive swapped all the protruding caps to the other side of the controller and its ready to mount externally onto a heat sink.

Ive installed a 10 amp shunt soldered short so I should get 45 to 50 amps max and 30 amps cont approx.

I had to replace a 25v 470uf cap as I may of damaged it.


I hooked the controller up to a battery without hall sensors and throttle, and I got two beeps.  So the logic is still ticking.

I hope tomorow I will have advanced enough to test this controller on the hub.

Ive been taking a few snaps along the way I will post up sooon,

[Leslie]

Swwwwweeeeet.


Last night I hooked up the controller to my now made external controller hub and external controller, and she works.  

I havent installed the hall senor connection yet but it worked fine in sensorless mode.

Here is the damage that needed to be repaired.  Looks like I got lucky and caught it it time.



I used an old file and sand paper to smooth it up.




Here is a pic of the stator finished rewiring,



I got some Pictures of the controller comming, I even impressed my self with some of the work done on it.  Those traces are beefy and the connectors to the hub phase wires are chunky.

[GM Canada]

Hi Leslie,

I must say the work you do on your bikes is truly impressive. You really do have a love for it with an incredible amount of confidence and skill. It really is inspiring and even got me out in the back yard again working on my bike. Nothing to the level of your work though.

Gary

[Leslie]

I hate fabricating.  But I love doing electronics and weird experiments,

But hey its looking pretty cool.  





I tested it, the wheel turns. The hall sensors have connections and the motor gets its blade connectors tonight.

Before its finished I want to a bead gasket of sealant between the project box and heat sink, the gasket will be as far away from the fets as the box will allow.

And I install a charge feed and two Polarized latching realys.

Although that heat sink isn't aluminum it big and heavy so I will pot rivet it to the project box. I will need to make the heat sink the main installed part not the box.  

[Leslie]

This has got to be the best GM 6 fet controller on this planet ATM.



The controller is allen bolted this heat sink. There is a riser between the fets and sink, plenty of thermal grease between. I kept the mica therm strip in there, as it is great stuff.  

I made the riser from a plate of aluminum and the black concrete floor/water is my machiner.


If you want a six fet controller to do the work of a 12 fet controller give it the cooling of an 18 fet controller.  Man this sink is overkill but it shall keep the derating well under control.

Sure its no replacement for a bigger controller but certainly will do more than 25 amps.  

It will sit right on top of the back tire for a fan effect.  I will almost water proof it too.  Maybe spray some varnish over the board too.

[Leslie]

Lets take a peak of the fets.




They look really well clamped onto this heat sink.

I'll make sure its are not too tight.

[Leslie]

I found that just general working on the hub has made the axle tip thread bent.  So nothing huge to worry about I willo just set it straight


Well what I noticed is that the GM wheel nut is made are of softer metal than the axle, which is a good sign the axles are strong.  And, the GM wheel nut's thread is made to fail before the axle thread, which is good too, right?

But in the case where one has to completely remove the wheel nut will foresee the undocumented issue that could cause axle spin out or whell nut popping off like one had done to me.

As the user puts the softer steel wheel nut over the bent thread the harder metal gouges out the wheel nut and it become loose over the axle.

To fix this and or avoid this issue it maybe prudent to use a high tensile bolt nut to reset the thread before removing any wheel nut.  As a result my GM wheel nut is prolly still OK but I will use the high tensile nut I used on my GM HBS hub as it doesn't wobble around as much and will repair the thread every time I remove the high tensile nut.

[Leslie]

I set a new personal record with the new Magic Beef Cake Mod.  46.66 amps at 49.6v. 2314.336 Watts.

I did about 10 stop starts and went off road to see if I could get this controller warm.  I climbed a bumpy grassy hill with no troubles where I hit my peak 46.6 amps.

Man it gets up and goes.

Results after 10 mins of riding, the controller nor motor had any temperature change.  I will have to get the 20ah batt working on this kit and try for a permanent setting of 40 amps.

I still have a little bit of cable and external controller management as I just taped it all safely into a workable configuration.


But the internal to external conversion is almost finished and I am all but calling it a success.

[Leslie]

I took it for a 9km run where I took a trailer.  Its a cool afternoon and its gusty windy.

I drew 49.07 amps max at 49.3v. 2419.151 watts max.

The motor again was a little warmish about body temperature to touch and the internal modded now external controller was almost cold.  I felt a tiny bit of heat on the back of the controller but it was much cooler then the motor.

[MonkeyMagic]

Hmmm so that means you have to update your signature pic post me thinks there Les
and Gary may have to lend you his cape soon with all the flyin' around your doing!

So I assume the top speed does not change, just the speed reaching it??

I'm so jealous. This isn't fair they should pull 2.5K out of the box lol