GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => eBike Mods/Legalization => Topic started by: suprted1 on May 26, 2011, 09:33:00 PM
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After a shunt modification today, my wheel doesnt start rolling anymore.... But there is not 5 beeps warning, anything seems normal, except it wont start. The lights on the throttle is bright and clear.
I connected battery, Wattsup-meter, and throttle, but no spinning, pulls 0,03-0,04A. Up to 0,20A when I push the honk button. But no sound.
Before modification.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gMvh4SX7HAU/Td7FmdEXNpI/AAAAAAAAAS4/d04gxuDuci8/s1024/Before%2Bmodification.JPG)
After,
and no func..... (/&%)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cpMjWO_nbBE/Td7F6Hv_YVI/AAAAAAAAAS8/IYhcJIb14qM/s912/After%252520modification.JPG)
Anybody got any good ideas ?
I also removed the shunt, but still no function. There is no short circuit between shunt and metal bar.
Help ;-)
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I'm presuming the motor worked OK before you pulled it apart.
You previously mentioned using 6 x 5S lipo packs, but mine would not work on 15S lipos because the voltage was too high for my controller. As long as the voltage was below 60V it worked fine, whereas above 60V nothing at all happened apart from the battery gauge lights.
I hope you refitted the plastic insulation material between the FETs and the aluminium heatsink plate, and didn't just use thermal paste, otherwise the FETs would probably have shorted each other out where they touched against the metal:
(http://www.arhservices.co.uk/GoldenMotor/Rivetedheatsink.JPG)
Is it possible that the wiring harness coming from the Pie could have been damaged by excessive movement while working on the hub assembly?
Are you 100% sure that all the wires were soldered back onto the correct connections when the controller was refitted?
If no obvious mistakes have been made, you will need to remove the cover and check the continuity of the wires between the controller and the harness connectors.
It would also be a good idea to check the voltages on the throttle connector too.
Unplugging the brake connector would also eliminate the possibility of a brake switch or wiring problem causing loss of power.
I've run out of suggestions for the moment, so let's hope you can spot something obvious with either the connections or the wiring.
Alan
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Thanks a lot for good ideas :):)
All wires was shortened and soldered back to the same places, took pictures before and after to be sure.
I shortened the cable at the wheel because of damages to the cable at the edge of output from the wheel, when it arrived.
Now I've pulled a new cable internally, and will try an external controller in a few minutes.
Brake switches has not been connected, and will not be, because of hydraulic brakes.
0282 goldenmotor controller, and will try to modify this one later, but first I have to see that it works at all.
So hopefully it will run again in a little while :):)
I also use 10S Lipo, and 15S, when voltage has dropped to below 60V
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External controller 0282 48V/50A ??? connected and tested OK :):):) time for a testrun :):)
Made a nice rpm with 58V LiPo, when running free. This is gonna get fun :):)
Max 8A when running free, accelerating from the bottom with full throttle.
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Remember to turn the amps down in the software or you are going to burn it!
Trust me I know! ::)
Start at 7 amps continuous and around 10-12 max amps
Do NOT and I mean NOT go over 30 amps on the internal controller, the external controller can't even take it due to inadequate cooling of the controller, even with direct air contact!
I suspect it will burn out even at 30 amps, eventually. I would turn down the regen to not generate more than 10 amps too, if you don't have a cycle analyst, get one so you can monitor your current consumption!
That's a warning from someone with experience with lots of these controllers!
Best of luck,
Mark