first time failure

[shakkan]

 got my g/motor and tested  it on the bike to make sure it was all ok,which it was.the next day I fitted it properly on the bike with all the wires cable tied up etc and when I connected it up the wheel would only rotate when I spun it and, was not rotating at full speed.it then stopped and started to reverse very slowly then stoped.i unpluged it and checked all connections and plugged it up and blew a 30 amp fuse,then again.the wheel wont spin without pushing it and when I disconnected the motor wires it spins but with a judder. any help would be very helpfull
glenn(uk)

[Draggin]

     Glen,  Are you handy at all?  If the 30 amp fuse blew.  Probably the main wiring harness got cut when they pulled it through the center of the hub.  This is BS if you have a regen controller (their no good) buy the non regen one their cheap. The easiest way to repair this is to remove the machine screws from the wired side.  Mark with a punch or a scribe in case they are matched. Remove the spindle nut and the machine screws then pop the end cover off the side with no wire.  Two screwdrivers works good.  now you are looking at the armature.  put it wire side down on a green garbage can and with a quick push push the rotor out of the magnet.  watch your fingers the magnets are very strong and will want the rotor.  Count your fingers before and after.  Cut all the leads inside the armature leaving enough room to resolder back together.  Pull the wire and the spring protector out of the centre of the hub.  strip the wire back. make sure you go through the nut and washers before threading wire in through hub. resolder using shrink wrap tubing.  while you have it apart take a caliper and measure the bearing shoulder all the way round to make sure the bearing is true.  a certain amount of judder is normal it is the rotor bars passing the magnets.  An excessive judder is the balls in the bearing going past the out of roundness caused by the untrue bearing shoulder.  Now don't loose heart. If you have to replace the regen controller for a non regen one, and you have to spend half a day rewiring the motor, and you have to get a machinist to turn the axle and make up shims.  You still have a bike that can blow the doors of a crystalyte or bionx and you will still have spent half the money.     

[shakkan]

thanx for a good reply,it will be very helpfull.
i removed ALL the wires comming out of the controller,to the rest of the bike,,then pluged in the battery and bang went the fuse again.this would indicate to me that it was the controller-so I stripped it down ,had a look see and --nothing, all looks ok,no burnt out electronics.
with all the wires disconnected the wheel spins freely with no judder-not bearings?.connect the motor wires up to controller and there is resistence but its smooth.
if it is the controller, and goldenmotor doesnt answer my complaint(as ive read in here)can I get another from them or elsewhere and if so how much ?? are they repairable?
thanx once again for any feedback

[Draggin]

   Good oh.  the rotor I think has 51 poles (I think) which makes it unique.  The good news is that the controller is fairly cheap.  Whomever you got the kit from may be a good source for replacement.  I wouldn't think that you would pay 100USD delivered to your house.  There has to be a UK distributor that you could talk to about warrantee.  I'd almost be tempted to buy the new one and fight with GM while you are riding around on your bike.  If you ended up with two useless controllers it would certainly add some flavour to your emails.   If you end up with two working then you have a spare or try ebay.  It's about as frustrating as it gets though.  don't give up.  Your already teaching us stuff.