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5KW BLDC Motor Controller wiring

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Jusp:
I am about to test my 5kW motor with its VEC300 controller.
The wiring is quite straightforward and described in https://www.goldenmotor.com/controllers/VEC%20Controller%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg
However, before I potentially damage anything I want to be sure I understand all the inputs and outputs. I am unable to find a user manual, hence my post.

Throttle  : seems simple, GND and 5V power the throttle, which delivers 0 to 5V back depending on the throttle setting

Brake     : GND and 5V. Is this an input to order braking, or an output actuating a (mechanical) brake? The wire labels GND/5V make me suspect it is an output.
                  What I hope it is is an input, so that connecting these two wires will start braking on the motor, regenerating kinetic energy into my batteries.
                  If this is not the case, does this controller support regeneration?
                 
High brake : 12V. What is this?

e-lock  : Seems simple. Connecting these wires will enable/unlock the system

Forward/Reverse : Seems simple. Connecting the wires will reverse the motor direction

Speed Cruise : Seems simple. Connecting the wires will start "Speed Cruising". But what is that exactly? Setting the current speed as in a cruise control?

Any explanation appreciated.

Thanks,

Juul

Bikemad:
Hi Juul,

With the VEC-300 controller, the throttle can work in 2 ways by selecting Hyperbola or Linear in the programming software.
The linear setting is used for a conventional car or bike throttle that goes from zero when released to maximum power at full throttle.
The Hyperbola setting allows a centre biased throttle tobe used, which will increase the Forward and Reverse rpm from the centre neutral position in relation to the direction the throttle is moved, which is more suitable for boat use.
In Hyperbola mode there is not much point in wiring up a separate Reverse switch to join the two reverse wires together.  ;)

The "High brake : 12V" is used when the vehicle already has a 12V brake light system fitted, and the 12V feed to the brake lights is used instead of having to fit a separate brake switch to join the +5V and Brake wire together.

Applying the brakes (by sending 12V to the High Brake or joining the +5V Brake and GND wires) will automatically shut off the power to the motor and simultaneously activate regen.

The Cruise function is basically used to electronically lock the controller in a predetermined throttle position. This is achieved by holding the throttle at the desired position and then momentarily pressing the cruise button to hold the throttle setting until the cruise button is pressed again or the brakes are applied.

This Cruise function would not be of much use on a boat if it is already equipped with a friction type throttle that automatically remains in the last set position when it is released.  ;)

Alan
 

Jusp:
Ah, that is totally clear. Thanks Alan, I will start wiring :)

Jusp:
It works! Connected the controller, motor, batteries and a foot pedal (not very appropriate for a boat ;)), and shorted the e-lock.
After that I could let the motor spin using the foot pedal. I did not try the programming interface yet, because I am normally a Linux user, so must find a Windows laptop for running the programming app.

Two concerns:

   - I  powered on the system by attaching the last cable between the batteries (don't have a proper contactor yet). Even with the foot pedal in the off position this gave quite a spark.
     This seems to indicate that the system with motor not running still draws quite some power. The foot pedal also has a switch that shorts when one starts pressing the pedal; I did not connect that switch.
     Is this idle load expected? Or should the pedal switch connect to the brake?

  - When powering on the controller led blinked/beeped once, which according to the manual indicates "battery voltage higher than default". That seems correct, because my bank of 8 Interstate 6V golf chart batteries measures 52V when full.
    The motor seemed to work fine, and I guess I can reprogram the default voltage, but does this higher voltage hurt in the long (or short) run? And would this be the reason for the spark, the controller shorting some for getting the voltage down?

Juul

Bikemad:
Hi Juul,

The spark you experienced is caused by the sudden inrush current that is charging the capacitors in the controller up to full battery voltage. This current quickly drops away as the capacitors are instantly charged up.
I have not seen a figure for the residual current draw of the VEC-300 controller but I would expect it to be less than 50mA (0.05A).

A pre-charge resistor can be used to limit the current for a second or two before connecting the controller directly to the battery (i.e PreCharge the controller through the resistor using a momentary push switch before energising the contactor).

A momentary push switch and a 30 Ohm resistor can be used to pre-charge the capacitors in the controller before operating the contactor to eliminate the arcing at the contactor contacts and reduce the stress on the capacitors:



Check out this post for more details on the precharge resistor.

There should be very little current draw on the battery once the capacitors are charged and the throttle is not being operated.

A single blink from the LED is normal (power on self test of the LED) when first powering up the controller, however, a regular series of single blinks would indicate "battery voltage higher than default".

52V is perfectly fine, a 16S LiFePO4 battery pack is 58.4V fully charged.

I don't know whether the GM USB cable and programming software will work with a Windows emulator installed on a Linux laptop, but it might be worth trying it.  ;)

Alan
 
EDIT: Additional information added.

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