3kw bldc motorcycle conversion issues/questions

[Bikemad]

The 200A rating of the VEC-200 is for the Phase current not the Battery current, and is the maximum permissible pulsed current allowed to pass through the phase wires and motor windings, as the Phase current is not constant it is typically a lot higher than the Battery current.

On the Magic Pie hubmotors, the controller has a maximum "Battery drawn current" setting of 30 Amps, but the "Rated phase current (A)" has a maximum setting of 70 Amps.

I seem to recall that the VEC-300 only has a maximum "Battery drawn current" setting of 110 Amps, in which case, I would expect the VEC-200 to have a maximum Battery drawn current of around 2/3 of that, which equates to just under 75 Amps.

I am wondering whether the 50A continuous limit of the BMS could have been responsible for the failure.    If the BMS suddenly disconnects the battery under high load, it could result in a brief high voltage spike from the motor windings which goes straight into the controller. This sudden high voltage spike could result in damage to some of the components within the controller.

Take a look at this thread for further information regarding a similar problem.

There can be a big difference between the recommended continuous current rating of a battery cell and the amount of current that it can actually supply under extreme load. The BMS should always ensure that the the individual cells within the battery are not overloaded beyond their acceptable limits.

I accidentally directly short circuited a 5Ah LiPo pack (without any BMS or fuse to protect it) while trying to demonstrate the spark caused by the inrush current when you first connect a controller to the battery. The pack was rated at 20C continuous and 30C peak, but one of the copper contacts instantly disappeared in a big flash within a fraction of a second, accompanied by an enormously loud bang:





I was very lucky to get away with nothing worse than some minor burns on my fingers. Never underestimate the power stored within a lithium battery pack.

Alan
 

[Motolittle]

Thanks Alan for your input! My experience with the plugs melting was almost identical to yours after the controller shorted internally.

As far as too much current goes I just checked the website   to see what the rating is and it says rated continuous current : 80 amps

https://www.goldenmotor.bike/vector-200-series-72-volt-brushless-motor-controller/

I am thinking possibly weak mosfets that failed. I have ridden it no different for about a month and constantly check temp of battery and motor and controller and have never even got them hot from use only barely warm due to great gearing.

[Motolittle]

Can you post a link on how to check a standard golden motor twist throttle without it plugged in to anything to confirm it works properly. Thanks

[Tommycat]

... how to check a standard golden motor twist throttle without it plugged in to anything to confirm it works properly.

A hall sensor throttle uses an electronic IC chip to vary the sensor output.  It would at least have to be powered up in order to test.  I like to use a 5vdc rechargeable battery commonly used as an auxiliary power source for cell phones or other electronic devices.


Battery positive, 5vdc+ goes to the hall sensor input, battery negative, 0vdc (ground) goes to hall sensor ground connection. And you read the output from the sensor output connection as you twist the throttle. Which typically varies from ~.8vdc to ~3.75 vdc.










For more details check out this thread...

[Motolittle]

Well my friends back to the testing and after testing the throttle per Tommycat's instruction my throttle performs flawlessly and the e lock works perfect with continuity checks.

Thanks again to Tommycat for making that possible!!!!

 So after patiently waiting for my new motor controller to come in I hooked it all up and I'm having a couple issues that  hopefully you guys can help me with.

 After being very careful to connect my Hall  sensors and phase wires the exact way I had it working perfectly before I wanted to check the parameters on the computer first to make sure that everything was safe and lower the amps to match my battery output.

 on my last controller I had issues where I would sporadically be able to connect to the computer and then other times I would not be able to connect no matter what which I have heard is a common problem for other users too .

 On this new controller when I plug it in to try and read it on the computer the small red LED on the controller starts blinking and it shows up on the PC as comm4 but I get a new error I have not seen before : controller version incorrect.

 I tried over and over to reconnect to the PC with power from the battery and without power from the battery and with the E lock on and with the e lock off and nothing. The program does recognize that the controller is plugged in and it just doesn't upload and says "controller version in correct  The program does recognize that the controller is plugged in but it just doesn't upload and says "controller version incorrect".
 I am using the direct link from the golden motor Canada website which is where I purchased it all from. Gary has been great to work with and I do enjoy these products I just I'm trying to figure this silly had a  I am using the direct link from the golden motor Canada website which is where I purchased it all from. Gary has been great to work with and I do enjoy these products I just I'm trying to figure this silly issue now.

 I know this controller is supposed to be plug-and-play also but at this point even not connected to the  Computer the new controller seems to have no  settings established on it almost as if it was blank. I do not get any response when I turn the e lock on or off like I would before. I tried setting the factory settings back onto the controller also from the computer and I only got the same response of controller version incorrect.


Please help brothers! Thanks

[Motolittle]

Ok I finally got in to parameters on the PC.

For all out there having difficulty go to the golden motor China website and use the newest software version!!

Thanks to Gary I figured this out!!

Ok parameters are set and new motor controller ready to use but...


When I plug it all in I measure proper voltage at the controller and now that it is set as far as parameters go it still does not turn on when I press the e lock button. I have already continuity checked the button and wires and they seem to be working fine.

When I push the e lock button though to try to run it no lights flash and  the controller doesn't respond.

What could cause this ??

[Tommycat]

Your welcome on the throttle checks!  Let's get this new one running!

Disconnected your programming cable...

So you have full battery power to the B- and B+ lugs. Does it make it thru the fuse? Using this schematic BTW...



Then from battery ground to back probing the pink wire (#10 pin) at the low voltage connector, you should have full battery power with the e-switch on.

Then from battery ground to back probing the red wire (#14 pin) at the low voltage connector, you should have 5 vdc.

If so far so good? Disconnect all of the other connectors except the throttle. Double check it's connections and wiring, and give it a try.

Always keep an eye open for any error codes. Let's see how far you get.


Oh, and what is the latest version to the programming software to be nosey.

[Motolittle]

Well my friends I have tried everything you recommended multiple times and still nothing...

I measured all proper voltages and backprobed the e lock. Everything seems to be working right but the controller is still not turning on... I don't get it

[Tommycat]

Will unplugging the motor hall sensor wiring harness set a trouble code?

[Motolittle]

I tried unplugging the Hall plug and turning it on and no blinks or anything.

I am using my original wiring harness with the new controller which it is the identical replacement controller from Gary so it's all legit..

The new one didn't even come with a harness that's how it sent.

The software was a new rev and once I got that settled it just now won't turn on. I'm wondering if they slightly changed the pins in the main controller a bit..

Throttle tests perfect for Hall sensors and e lock continuity
Backproped the e lock pins for voltage and it's good.
Battery good!
Checked the motor once but I can check again...  it should not matter to get the controller to turn on


With my last setup every time the controller turned on it blinked red LED one time and made an audible click. Than I could ride....

This 1 no lights on and no click and bike no go.

Thanks again for all your help! I am grateful for sure !!

[Tommycat]

I doubt that they would change the pin-out.   

Following the wiring diagram above. Last ditch effort would be to disconnect the 30 pin connector and everything else except for the battery B-  and B+ wiring. Checking for full battery power from (B-) ground to BOTH B+ terminals. And then CAREFULLY run a jumper wire from B+ directly to pin #10 (e-lock), lower right corner. Being careful not to touch any other pins or shorting. If the LED doesn't light up then, I'm stuck...

I don't know if a controller programmable setting could cause his issue? Have you tried resetting to original configuration?
 

[Motolittle]

Tommycat I'm thankful for your continual help!

I have checked the fuse for continuity and checked that I'm getting voltage to both terminals...

Than I have backprobed to check that voyage is getting to the e lock pin.... still nothing... no red lights.....

I have contacted my supplier to see if he can help troubleshoot this a bit more too!

If anyone thinks of anything else let me know. Thank you all!