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41
General Discussions / Problem with the VEC200 controller
« Last post by KP on February 18, 2024, 04:54:02 PM »
Hello, I'm a student. I'm having a problem with the vector 200 control box. The status indicator blinks 6 times: Mosfet protection; Mosfet is abnormal. Can you help me? What is the cause and how can it be fixed?

thank you

KP
42
General Discussions / Re: MX25V2 current limited
« Last post by Leonsmits on February 16, 2024, 04:20:53 PM »
Hi Alan,

I tried and it worked, it makes a big difference in accelerating. Thank you for your advice, problem solved!!

Kind Regards leon :)
43
General Discussions / Re: MX25V2 current limited
« Last post by Leonsmits on February 15, 2024, 05:47:32 PM »
Hi Alan,

Thank you for reply. I will try 24v setting.

But it seems that the acceleration curve is so defined that from standing still and accelerating it takes a while before 15Amps is consumed by motor ( the current is slowly building up). I would expect when starting with full trottle moter would consume 15 amps immediate and taking down the current when reaching max speed.

Kind regards leon
44
Electric Boat Conversions / Re: VEC500 regen on a sailboat? Anyone gotten it to work yet?
« Last post by Fabio on February 14, 2024, 09:52:06 PM »
i'm trying to figure it out....
45
General Discussions / Re: MX25V2 current limited
« Last post by Bikemad on February 14, 2024, 09:16:22 PM »
Hi Leon andto the forum.

Most BLDC motors will draw their maximum current at very low speed, and the current being drawn from the battery will automatically decrease as the motor rpm increases (and when the motor reaches its maximum governed rpm) which is why the current draw is so low at 28km/h.
However, if you were doing a constant 28km/h whilst going up an incline, I would expect the current draw to be higher than 7A.

Please note that a battery current draw of just 15A @ 48V = 720W, which is still 44% higher than the motor's 500W rating.

The Max Current settings available in the miroMAX version of the programming software is 30A Continuous and 70A Peak:



Unfortunately, I think this value is for "Phase Amps", which are typically much higher than "Battery Amps".

You could try setting the controller's "Motor Voltage" parameter to 24V instead of 48V to see if the torque increases.

Alan
 
46
General Discussions / MX25V2 current limited
« Last post by Leonsmits on February 14, 2024, 12:41:59 PM »
Dear Sir,

I have Fido 500W geared wheel conected to GM MX25V2 controller. Battery is 35 AH 48v with JK ballancer.

Motor is driving max speed about 50 km/h, so I limited to 55% in software (about 28 km/h now). Acceleration is set to 100% in software, but still have little torque. When speeding up scooter I can read in JK ballancer app motor is consuming 15Amps. When motor has reached max speed (28Km/h) motor is consuming about 7 amps.

It looks if controller current is limited to 15 amps, but in the software I set voltage to 48v and max current to 40 amps. Because my scooter has no peddels and I don't have PAS sensor, I left PAS in the software in the "high" mode.

Please advice to get more power.

Kind Regards Leon
47
Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Brake by reversing
« Last post by Fabio on February 10, 2024, 09:27:58 AM »
hi, I had the same problem and I changed the regenerative bracking option and now I can start the motor forward or reverse also if the propeller is turning in the other side, i'm still testing to real understand how it work.
48
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: connecting with the controller Magic Pie IV
« Last post by Bikemad on February 09, 2024, 12:19:00 AM »
If you have definitely selected the correct COM port relating to the USB-SERIAL CH340 device in Device Manager, then try clicking the "blue helmet" again after the power is turned on to see if it will connect.

It might be worth downloading and installing the USB Driver to see if it makes any difference.

Alan
 
49
General Discussions / Re: 5kw motor jitters after Hall Sensor replacement
« Last post by Bikemad on February 09, 2024, 12:05:40 AM »
Did you replace all three Hall Sensors with Honeywell SS41 Hall Sensors?
If you used different Hall Sensors, it is possible that they may operate differently to the original ones.

Hall Sensors can also be damaged if heat from the soldering iron is applied for too long.
Use a voltmeter to check the operation of all three Hall Sensors to confirm they are all working correctly.
Take a look at this post and this video for more details on testing the operation of the hall sensors.

Alan
 
50
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: replacing Magic Pie III motor with Magic Pie IV motor without removing wheel
« Last post by Bikemad on February 08, 2024, 11:45:09 PM »
Quote from: Bikemad on December 15, 2023, 12:52:18 AM
I usually thread a nut on the opposite end of the axle (freewheel or non-controller side) until the outer side of the nut is flush with the end of the axle. I then tap the end of the axle/nut with a large wooden mallet (or use a large hammer with a block of wood placed against the axle/nut to cushion the blow and prevent damage) until the cover on the controller side comes away.

Quote from: ElectricStreet on January 31, 2024, 09:11:37 PM
I don't recommend this method.  It is too easy to damage the axle threads with the bolt on I couldn't get the bolt off and I had to file the threads down enough to get past the spot.

I don't understand how you managed to damage steel threads on the axle if you used a wooden mallet (or a large hammer with a block of wood placed against the axle/nut to cushion the blow and prevent damage) as I described.

I have dismantled several motors using this technique and have never damaged anything on the motor (however, the block of wood I used did sustain some minor injuries).

Alan
 
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