Probable controller problem

[knackeredknees]

Hello all,

I seem to have encountered a problem today, as my bike died {no power through the throttle}.

Yesterday it cut out a couple of times, but restarted almost immediately {when re-pressing the thumb throttle}.

It is a GM 250w 36v 12ah 26" wheel conversion kit.

Having read Luis's thread {further down this page}, it appears my bike has the same symptoms.....................the wheel rotates freely when manually spinning it forwards, yet it now has a very noticable resistance {can feel the gears rotating} when turning the wheel backwards. I tried the same thing that was suggested in that thread {disconecting the three thick wires from the motor}, and it has definately removed this extra resistance, and it now feels as it did before the problem.

Before I try and get a replacement controller, could someone confirm that the controller is the most likely culprit, and that it is less likely to be caused by anything else.

Many thanks

Alan

[Leslie]

Hi Alan.

Yes any resistance to wheel turning like you have expressed sounds like the fets have failed.

How long has the controller been in commission for?

[knackeredknees]

Ive had the Kit since the end of August, although I have used the bike quite a lot.

My area is quite undulating, so maybe ive pushed it a bit too hard. Although, the controller has always remained cool>warm {never hot}, and the motor is alway cool.

Not sure how easy it is to get a replacement controller in the UK {i bought the kit from Alien Ocean}. I 'think' the controller is a BAC-28x, although I cant see anything written on the unit {apart from Golden Motor}.

Oh well, I shall try and phone Alien Ocean on monday, and see if they can order me a replacement.

Thanks for the swift reply.

Alan

[MonkeyMagic]

Good luck Alan....

I went to feel the sides of my hub motor the other week, touched one side..... ok nice, if anything cold.... okay now the other side....... YIPES !!! massive burning sensation..... I touched the disc rotor hahaha

[Leslie]

Yes we have not got an answer as to why the magic controllers are failing but we know what its not, Regen!

Risk one.  Get used to motor and have it fail your knackered kness on a crossing.

Alternative.  

Maybe not use brake switches and risk throttle hall failure jamming the motor to full speed.  Rare in most cases.

Good brakes and a dead switch with easy acess solves the latter.

Try a different brand controller may solve both.

Possible that hall failure can cause controller driver fets to fight each other and take one phase channel out.  Indicated by two beeps.

[knackeredknees]

Ive just attatched the horn to my controller {its never been fitted before} and it gave out five beeps.

Not sure what this means though.

If I do get everything sorted, I reckon I will be a nervous ebiker for a while, always waiting for the next thing to go wrong.

Alan

[Leslie]

Ive just attatched the horn to my controller {its never been fitted before} and it gave out five beeps.

Not sure what this means though.

If I do get everything sorted, I reckon I will be a nervous ebiker for a while, always waiting for the next thing to go wrong.

Alan

This means controller death.

Look unless we see GM anounce magic controller bugs fixed I would advise looking at another controller.

Because of your age and maybe the need for something reliable go to endless sphere and chat to some of the people there and get some recommendations.

I send you a PM soon about some alternatives. 

[knackeredknees]

Thanks for the suggestions, and any recomendations you can come up with.

I shall have a look at Endless Sphere this evening.

Ive emailed Alien Ocean about tracking down a replacement controller for me, but it seems it would be best to explore more options first.

Thanks for that!

Alan

[Sundsvall]

I am extremely satisfied with the Magic controller to my mini-motor and the Infineon controller with a calibrated CA-DP to the MP.

Peter

[Leslie]

Peter are you using the brake switches on the winter bike.  And it is a 24v bike is it not?

[Sundsvall]

One brake switch for the front motorized wheel and only because I had to use the thumb throttle on the left side. I can’t see the point of cut the power if there’s no regen unless it’s obvious that my abilities to do more than one thing at the time are too limited. I’ve ride a mc for decades and have never experienced that I missed that function. When I put it this way, I’m start wondering why I enabled it at all.

Yes, it is a 24v bike as it was easiest to configure with SLA’s and a 12v charger. When I upgraded her with the froggie, I was stuck with that. I really would like to test the 36v setup.

P

[MonkeyMagic]

I have the brake lever switches connected my brake lights in the taillamp, then have momentary switch for eBrake.

Even though I was always super cautious (mechanical brake first, then regen momentarily, then mech brake again until stopped) but even being careful, I would have been going 25km/h max and pressing the regen for probably 2 seconds then releasing I immediately encountered cogging.

Still CBF taking the hub casing off and testing the FETs, oh I found this site with a couple of tips:

Dunno if its been posted before

http://www.4qdtec.com/mostest.html

dig it