GoldenMotor.com Forum

Hi Charles,

Check if the 12 beep error code occurs at maximum or minimum throttle.
If it only occurs at maximum throttle, you will need to increase the Throttle maximum allowed voltage (V) until the error no longer occurs.
If it only occurs when the throttle is fully released, you may have to lower the Throttle lowest allowed voltage (V) until the error no longer occurs.

You may be able to restrict the maximum rpm by setting the Rated motor speed (rpm) to the required value and also setting the Forword Speed ratio (%) to 100%.

If you don't have a 3 speed switch connected, I would set the 3-Gears enable setting back to 0:Disable.

I would also expect the Number of pole pairs to be set to 4 (not 5) as the 5kW motor only has 8 magnets (4 pole pairs).

Alan
 

   
       The loose axle nuts seems to have fixed the "knocking" noise .. 3 hours on the bike and no noises ... 
       A couple of other things I noticed may have been caused by the loose nuts ....  I had a "clunk" when I went into the throttle to fast and when I hit the front brake ... Thought it was "normal" ....  Now that's gone too ...no more clunk ..  I must have rode it this way for a year ... Don't want to see what my fork drop out looks like ... I have 2 Torque arms .. 1 is the thick one from Grin Tech. ... perhaps I will put 2 new ones on ....  The other thing is I was constantally needing to adjust the front brake as it rubbed the rim .. That seems to be "fixed" now to ....
       I still use the tip you gave me about the home watt meter to fully charge the battery every now and then ...  Mine goes down to about 4 watts when full ...
      Once AGAIN ... THANK YOU .. Don't know what I'd do without this help ...  If this motor crapped out tomorrow ..I'd say I got my moneys worth out of it ...  But it just keeps going and going ....   Thanks Again .. Don

I want to check the Axle Nut .. Anyone know the Torque Spec ? Don't want to strip it with the 1/2 axle threads ... Thanks for any Help you can Give ... Don

Same advice as before:

Hi Don,

If you read that post again, you will see that I actually recommended 39.5Nm, or 28.76 foot pounds, so if you are happy to tighten yours to 40ft/lbs it should be plenty tight enough for the standard axle nuts.

As I've previously mentioned, I always tighten the axle nuts by feel, as I can usually "feel" when a nut is approaching its yield point.

I will admit that I probably tighten mine a bit more than they need to be because I have steel frames and I run a modified Pie at up to 50 Amps with no torque arms fitted.

I have previously measured the torque output of my modified Magic Pie, which worked out to be ~93Nm @ ~66Amps. Therefore a standard Magic Pie will probably produce ~42Nm of torque @ 30Amps.

My modified controller was eventually pushed to it's limit, but before it finally died, it delivered a whopping 97.75 Amps to the motor:


As torque is proportional to the current, this should theoretically have produced almost 138Nm (101ft/lbs) of torque, which my overtightened axle nuts were able to withstand without allowing the axle to move within the frame dropouts (and that was also without any torque arms fitted).

The most important thing to consider is that the torque on the axle is not one directional, as each time you engage regen, the torque on the axle is applied in the opposite direction to when the motor is being powered.
Any movement at the axle fixings whatsoever should be avoided at all costs, as it will inevitably result in the loosening of the axle nuts.

I regularly put a spanner on the axle nuts just to check they are still nice and tight and I haven't needed to retighten them yet, so presumably nothing is moving where it shouldn't move. 

Alan

Hi andto the forum.

I suspect that the Nominal battery voltage setting in the controller is set to a lower voltage than the battery's nominal voltage.
If the throttle was activated when the power was turned off, the voltage in the controller's capacitors would quickly drop below the Overvoltage protection value, causing the motor to briefly jerk.

If your controller is set to a nominal battery voltage of 24V and you are using a 36V battery, the battery voltage may be too high to allow the controller to work as the fully charged battery voltage (42~43.8V) would be higher than the 36V Overvoltage protection value.
Or, if your controller is set to a nominal battery voltage of 36V and you are using a 48V battery, the fully charged battery voltage (54.6~58.8V) would be higher than the 52V Overvoltage protection value:



What voltage Magic Pie did you purchase, and what is the nominal voltage of the battery you are using?

If you have the correct USB programming lead and PC software (or the Bluetooth dongle and smart phone App if it's a MP5) you should be able to set the controller's Nominal battery voltage setting to the correct value to match your nominal battery voltage.

Alan
 

Hi Tbnrider,
Sounds like a very frustrating experience.

Any chance of the motor's hall sensors having a bad connector, or accidently changing the pin-out thru all this? Use OEM replacement sensors?

Perhaps this thread will give you a different vantage point on something else. Check out the bench testing procedure for sure...
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/kits/golden-motor-magic-pie/110168-testing-bldc-motor-s-phase-wiring-hall-sensors-and-wiring



Regards,
T.C.