user feed back

[29a]

Hi all,
New here and was wanting some GM user feed back,
I couldnt find a lot of info about the actual system.
I have a clite at present and have had ever possible thing break in last 5 months (controller fets,brake cut offs,wheel bearing,shorted windings,failed hall sensor,Nicd batt fire)
I purchased that wrongly believing it to be finer quality, more like finer hype !   

So to my questions,

Is the motor Immediate start (from 0kmh) ?
If immediate start are the hall sensors 60 or 120 degrees ?

what's max Volts/amps motor/controller can handle ?

Does anyone have any rpm per volt info ?

Any torque per amp/volt info ?

Is there a torque arm available ?

To which clite 400 series does it most compare ?
(I would post link but don't wanna seem like a troll)

Are there any more Golden motor sites I should check out ?

I know some questions are a little techy but I would appreciate any constructive feed back

Thanking you in advance   

[myelectricbike]

1. 120.
2. hbs-36.pdf
3. Sitting without cooling off after hard ride, i.e., prolonged hill climbs, acceleration, etc. can prevent heat from being dispersed to air and instead spead to all metalic parts with the possibility of melting lead insulation which seals the bare leads together as the insulation cools.
4. Torque arm on rear wheel only but you can make a dandy one for the front wheel out of a stainless salad fork when the wife is out shopping.
5. The East Cost warehouse is developing a web site in the opposite UTC time zone to allow processing of orders 24 hours a day. Currently, during beta testing, it may or may be up and running due to computer code revision. 

If you want to participate in the Beta testing just go to Liability Agreement and enter your email address and click "I accept". Thanks.

[29a]

Thanks for the info,
Very honest user/liability agreement, a lot of people think and are led to believe by other vendors hub motors are plug and play, when they are definately not. It should be made clear to all (as Golden Motor does in its liability agreement) hub motors once installed and correctly set up by experienced people are very trouble free. But a DIY job with no experience/guidence is going to end usually in grief.

However if your still determined to go DIY
At a minimum you will need a good torque arm to prevent motor spining in dropouts ripping wires from hub the most common cause of problems with hub motors.All though better than nothing the salad spoon torque arm in my opinion isn't strong enough and the torque arm should be strong enougth to stop the axle spinning on its own.


I'm looking on the web page http://www.goldenmotor.com/ whats the difference between HBM-36 and HBS-36 ?

[myelectricbike]

Unless you do a 48 volt mod or have alloy front forks (a magnet can tell your this) a front wheel torque arm is not necessary so long as you keep your axle nuts tight becasue front wheels are not forced into the ground by as much weight and will slip when too much power is applied and will also slip if the windings are shorted.  Cresent or open end wrenches can also be used but using more than one slotted salad spoon (with 10mm (.4 inches) slotts) if you are paranoid, is a bit more dandy.

[kickabear]

Can someone please post a picture or a description of the salad spoon torque arm?  I can't imagine how that would work.

Thanks!

[29a]

Its not usually the instant force that causes the drop outs to round out/open up/break off its the continual metal fatigue caused by engaging the torque.

here's some good torque arm info http://www.users.bigpond.com/solarbbq/torquearmsandwashers.htm

Here's one that is easy and stronger than the salad spoon
http://www.velectris.com/forum/topic213.html?highlight=torque+arms

[kickabear]

Thanks!  Those are great links.  Even without speaking French, I get it.   

[myelectricbike]

A note of caution... neither alloy* dropouts or front hangers are recommended for ebike conversion even with a torque arm modification if the forks or rear triangle being motorized is alloy. Steel forks and triangles have a tendency to bend instead of break. While recovery of control may be possible following a road hazard encounter with a stronger and more flexible steel rear triangle or front fork, recovery may be impossible with a broken alloy rear triangle or front fork.

*The term alloy when applied to bicycle frames, forks and hangers refers to light weight, non-magnetic, non-ferris metals such as Duralum and Magnesium, etc.. These alloys are not made of iron. Steel for instance is an alloy of iron and carbon and although silvery gray just like light weight alloys when scratched is distinguishable by use of a magnet. Chromalloy does contain iron on the other hand and some Chromalloy alloys are suitably strong but it is relatively non-magnetic so a surface scratch resistance test is used to distinguish it from softer lightweight metal alloys as well as the fact that it is heavier.

[29a]

I think what myelectricbike is trying to say is don't use a light weight bike (aluminum alloy) as the frames are very weak.
Of course all bike frames are alloy (steel is an alloy) . I did over 3000 km last year on cromo steel front forks with a more powerfull motor so cromo steel is fine to use IMO and in the opinion of most hub motor users with a torque arm.
Generally the cheap heavy bikes have the stronger frames and if using a front hub motor don't use front suspension forks as they are very weak.

[Brandnew]

Installed one of my 20" front kit today on a Rans Recumbent. The front fork is Chromoly. Rode it about 1/2 mile before the dropouts opened up and hub motor spinned out of dropots. I am now trying to fashion a torgue arm for it. I am using a 36 volt battery pack not a 48 volt. I will not install another kit without a torque arm.

[myelectricbike]

The dandiest torque arm I've seen is a 12" adjustable wrench with the adjustment thumbscrew epoxied into place and pipe strap used to secure the handle to the fork. The wide jaw of the wrench is what makes it so dandy. Looks like the bike was stolen from the shop before the repair was complete!

[OneEye]

The mangier the look of the bike the less likely it is to be stolen, yes?

[myelectricbike]

In this case actually you need a security guard to watch the wrench... last night on returning from the store I stopped to look at a bike that had been locked and left overnight at a transit junction. The frame was all that was left! I think they would have even taken the paint if it had not be sealed with clear top coat! Reminds me of the pictures you see of what's left of a carcass when maggots get done. How can people be that desperate for bike parts when many parts are not universal or is this a sign we have a bigger problem with illegal aliens than we thought?