GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => Reviews => Topic started by: Supatrike on October 15, 2011, 09:29:54 PM
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Hi all,
I posted this a few weeks ago and now find that the post is removed. I have a problem with the battery GM sent to me and they are not responding to any of my emails. I have been very nice about this for months, but since no response I have made a website about the problem. Gary and Alan have been very helpful, and I don't doubt that buying through them would be a better experience than buying direct from the company. Here is my story:
http://www.vodstrup.com/bbw/GoldenMotor/goldenmotor.html
As Gary/Alan suggested, I have posted links to correspondence and also my receipt. When this issue is resolved, I will change my tune (and my website). If anyone else has similar stories, I will be glad to host them on my site.
Bart
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Your thread is not deleted, it is here
http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=3641.msg21733#msg21733
I just looked back through your most recent posts to find it. Unfortunatly that is the reality when dealing with GM China. They state in the near future they will not sell to the public directly anymore and only through the dealers. This would cetainly improve their customer relations issues, I hope this comes true, but I really doubt it will happen as they make more profit selling directly to the public. I noticed you posted "Don't buy from Goldenmotor" the reality is it should say "Dont buy from Golden Motor China". I am sure your issue would have been resolved long ago if you had purchased from a dealer. I have yet to read any post in this forum bad mouthing any GM dealer.
I will forward this information to my contacts at GM. Please send me an email to garysalo@goldenmotor.ca so I can have your email address and include you in the conversation.
Gary
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Thanks Gary,
It was a different thread that seems to have been deleted. I changed the website per your request.
Bart
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Hi all
this I noticed you posted
just a comment I have bought from both and my local dealer tries but still no better than ! (just get the same buy some more ) controllers that do not do what they say and batteries !
very funny !
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"Don't buy from Goldenmotor" the reality is it should say "don't buy from Golden Motor China". I am sure your issue would have been resolved long ago if you had purchased from a dealer. I have yet to read any post in this forum bad mouthing any GM dealer.
And that's not pointed at you Gary ! except for you may forgotten , what you have read on this forum and responded to ! OK :o
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Thanks Gary,
It was a different thread that seems to have been deleted. I changed the website per your request.
Bart
I received your email.
Thanks
Gary
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I bought my products from Gary and I must say everything was as near perfect as you could expect.
I only needed to apply some electrical tape to a single cord and this was only the MP controller program interface. Over all very-very good.
The internal MP controllers were a little on the weak side but adequate to make the bike worth riding. Using the program was beneficial for the experience.
All my Ebike gears is working really well, except for a controller that I put a drill through. Doh, and a cycle anaylst I got for free anyway, the CA wasnt a GM canada product. But Gary did offer to replace it. I'm Just too lazy to make that effort.
Motors were well wound inside, and I put a third party controller onto the MP and OMG this thing was raising the front wheel on take offs.
Over a year now, I have been through 3 sets of tires and the MP's toeing incredible loads on a trailer barely makes it to luke warm. This motor should last years to come.
More powerful controllers are something you may need to look into when you learn the trade. The GM controller are perfect for the entry level because there is plenty to lose over drawing current from packs and what not..
Hi Gary. :D
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I bought my products from Gary and I must say everything was as near perfect as you could expect.
I only needed to apply some electrical tape to a single cord and this was only the MP controller program interface. Over all very-very good.
The internal MP controllers were a little on the weak side but adequate to make the bike worth riding. Using the program was beneficial for the experience.
All my Ebike gears is working really well, except for a controller that I put a drill through. Doh, and a cycle anaylst I got for free anyway, the CA wasnt a GM canada product. But Gary did offer to replace it. I'm Just too lazy to make that effort.
Motors were well wound inside, and I put a third party controller onto the MP and OMG this thing was raising the front wheel on take offs.
Over a year now, I have been through 3 sets of tires and the MP's toeing incredible loads on a trailer barely makes it to luke warm. This motor should last years to come.
More powerful controllers are something you may need to look into when you learn the trade. The GM controller are perfect for the entry level because there is plenty to lose over drawing current from packs and what not..
Hi Gary. :D
Les, coincidently - you operate with a similar user name to "Leslie" who was a prime contributer to the forum.
Now that you are saying you purchased from Gary, mentioned you put a DRILL through a controller, and the fact you ride with a trailer is too co-incidental to me !!!
Now to add to this, your replaced CA I remember the posts about that - and I just read your notes on your Solid State Relays.....Was your CA damaged from a water short?
This is WAY too uncanny not for you to be 317537.... Oh yeah and you own a Ping 15Ah battery pack????
Time to fess up !!!
If you say otherwise, I don't think I will believe you anyway because there are too many similarities!!!
I would like to hear about your LED growing you have been doing :D
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I bought my products from Gary and I must say everything was as near perfect as you could expect.
I only needed to apply some electrical tape to a single cord and this was only the MP controller program interface. Over all very-very good.
The internal MP controllers were a little on the weak side but adequate to make the bike worth riding. Using the program was beneficial for the experience.
All my Ebike gears is working really well, except for a controller that I put a drill through. Doh, and a cycle anaylst I got for free anyway, the CA wasnt a GM canada product. But Gary did offer to replace it. I'm Just too lazy to make that effort.
Motors were well wound inside, and I put a third party controller onto the MP and OMG this thing was raising the front wheel on take offs.
Over a year now, I have been through 3 sets of tires and the MP's toeing incredible loads on a trailer barely makes it to luke warm. This motor should last years to come.
More powerful controllers are something you may need to look into when you learn the trade. The GM controller are perfect for the entry level because there is plenty to lose over drawing current from packs and what not..
Hi Gary. :D
Thanks for the postive comments and nice to hear from you again 537. I hope its not just a one time drop in but we see you here at least once in a while in the near future. Those that have been around a while remember how much you contributed to the forum and how interesting your posts were. BTW do you still have that CA_SA? I think I have found out how you can fix it!
Gary
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Thanks Gary,
It was a different thread that seems to have been deleted. I changed the website per your request.
Bart
You should be contacted shortly by David of GM China. Please let us know how things turn out.
Gary
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Thanks Gary,
It was a different thread that seems to have been deleted. I changed the website per your request.
Bart
You should be contacted shortly by David of GM China. Please let us know how things turn out.
Gary
Thanks to Gary's efforts I have been contacted by GM Canada China and they have agreed to remedy the situation. Thanks Gary!
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Glad to hear it. Hopefully we can see some posts in the future about how much you are enjoying your ride. Maybe a few pictures of your bike as well!
Gary
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I have a HPC-500A controller and a 90BLDC-004 motor. The controller wiring diagram shows connections U, V, W receiving blue, green, yellow from the motor but the motor wires are black, red, white.
Also, controller connections 18, 19, 20, 21 for the hall sensor are blue, green, yellow, red but what's coming out of the motor is white, green, orange, red.
Does anyone know how to reconcile these mismatched colors??
Cheers
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I just posted what happened to my HPM300A....he simply melted while the command was disconnected.
Today I received 2x 24V/100Ah, but I still have no idea about how to connect BMS box...
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Well you nailed me Monkey.
The led grow worked OK. I grew some nice letuce then I decided to put the lights I made up through the home. My led light was getting to complicated. Too many wires and water didnt mix too well. I needed to start from scratch which was going to be expensive.. Mind you I put all my broccoli out doors and was eaten alive by bugs and the tomatoes I plugged into the ground and we ate quite a few of those..
I have one plant left from all that and it is a passion fruit vine about to take over the side fence now. I grew really well indoors during winter when most vines lose leaves. I put it out side and it stopped growing for a while until summer, and bang it started to grow insane.
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Guys,
I have still the problem that my 500A controller starts blinking after a few seconds and cuts the power.
I measure only 2V between Battery+ and pin8, which should not be normally. The controller should connect Pin8 to Battery- to enable the 48V contactor to get power.
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Guys,
I have still the problem that my 500A controller starts blinking after a few seconds and cuts the power.
I measure only 2V between Battery+ and pin8, which should not be normally. The controller should connect Pin8 to Battery- to enable the 48V contactor to get power.
What type of battery and how big amp hour do you have this 500 amp controller on?
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I have 4 12V Lead acid batteries I measure 51V when fully charged, They are 30Ah batteries.
The motor is the goldenmotor 3000W brushless wheel motor.
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So much depends on what you can measure more than what is written on the web site. You could draw wll over 60 amps with this motor.
The motor is 3000 watts, divide this by the voltage 48v = 62.5 amps. You do not need a 500 amps controller for this wheel to run 3kw. 48V @ 500 amps, 48v* 500= 24000KW. So who knows howm much you are drawing from a battery only designed to deliver 1440 watts over 20 hours. I would guess about 90 amps your running. 4800 watts. Too much current for this battery and motor. All motors can draw up to 3 times it watts when starting and there need to be a shunt to stop this inductive inrush. Idealy you need a high performance lithium pack in the capacity range of 60ah+ and modify the controller to limit to 100 amps max. I would recomend a 100ah lithium pack and steer clear of the SLA's. SLA will become a money hole in your pocket and already your not happy with the results.
SLA are not designed to do high loads at 2C-3C they can do it for short bursts but if continuous you will see a large drop on the battery.
You may witness 12v an SLA drop to 10.75v with at 3C in a very short time. SLA are not designed for high current and long duration discharges. .
Besides I would guess you could be pulling nearly 100 amps with that contoller on the motor. I can make an SLA last for 6 mths @ 1C they should last for 3 mths at 2C but most controllers wont let it work for more than a few weeks because the damage you create A 2C makes the SLA perform very bad in only a short time..
You are messing with specialist high powered gear, you need specialist battery..
A good rule of thumb.
Measure your amps when you load the motor, mutiply this by the voltage you witness on the battery at this load, and you have your watts.
mutiply 12.8v by 4 this is 51.2v and see how much the voltage drops on tha battery when you stress the motor running. Say you measured 100A on load, and you see a 5v drop on you pack. Then multply 5v by 100amps that is 500 watts of power down the drain, it is heat inside your batteries, and causes much damage..
Now multply you AH batteries by the nominal voltage 48v.. 48v* 30ah = 1400 watts your battery might give, but this is rated over a 20 discharge rate..
Minus the 500 watts from your 1400 watts and your battery is capable of only 900 watts of power total. This is not really true, it gets even worse, but please read on.
View this image, it does not matter the AH, it matters the C rate.
(http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/102/007/253/1276155165703_hz-myalibaba-web9_2028.jpg)
If you take the current you draw and divide by your amp hour you will get your C rate. If you draw 100 amps, you divide this by 30ah and you will have 3.3333C
Now look at this image again. You can see that a lead acid battery will only run for about 4 minutes to 10.75v at 3C and this gets worse at 4C As you can see how much less time it takes to discharge, the more C you are taking from your pack. Sure there is plenty power left, but all the controller sees is the voltage, when it slumps bad. the controller will Low voltage cut (LVC) at 47v if it is designed for Lithium and it will cut at 43v if designed for SLA.
Most controllers are now designed for Lithium batteries.
most 30ah batteries is rated to a 20 hour discharge or they are much heavier for such heavy tasks 30ah @ 20hr discharge = 1.5 amps. 1.5A/30ah=.05C
30ah @ 3c = 90 amps * 48v = 4320 watts/ 60mins * 4 mins= 288watts your SLA can deliver before it hits LVC. You will only be able to get 20% of the packs rated output if you draw 100 amps and 288watts would barely get this 3KW motor going.
My 48v 15ah Lithium pack is rated at 1C, it is capable of delivering 720 at 15 amps. Many use it to 2C. This is 30 amps. And my light bike only draws 2C for a very short time. I think I couldget closer to 90% of my rated capacity.
Very expensive Lithium cells can do up to 10C, 30C max. Even a 10ah A123 specialist EV pack weighing under 8kgs might do better watts than a SLA 30ah pack that weighs 35kg with high powered motors..
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I see this over and over.
If you don't read and think, you might want to believe
"it says 1000 Watts, so it should stop at 1000 Watts."
A 30Amp circuit breaker cost me $12 shipped.
Maybe the battery packs should have one built in.
A cheap mod for me, but GM could
Probably to it for $2 or 3.
It could even have a bypass switch with a
"warranty void if removed" sticker.
Cheap source of goodwill IMHO.