GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => General Discussions => Topic started by: Andrew on April 24, 2011, 09:15:06 AM
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Hi everyone :),
I thought i'd post up a dedicated thread to my Dual drive "Mini Sprint" bike build. I've never dealt with an external magic controller before, and of course it is a little different to wiring an internal Magic Pie kit.
Firstly can someone pleasew confirm I've wired this correctly? I just need a second pair of eyes and a bit of re-assurance ;D
Do I need the two red 'switch' labelled wires connected (at the top of the picture) if not using a GM battery pack?
(http://www.arhservices.co.uk/apaclark/IMAG0028.jpg)
(http://www.arhservices.co.uk/apaclark/IMAG0030.jpg)
It's a bit OTT with the Anderson connectors but it works for me, and can be easily disassembled.
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Next question, the throttle wiring on the controller side are red(T1), green(not white)(T2) and black(Zero/ground). I take it I just need to wire the red and green from both controllers to the red and white on the throttle cable?
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Yo
I can't 100% tell from the pics, but it looks like the keyswitch is switching the battery power + the signal wire.
It will work the way you have it, but to save your keyswitch from switching all of the current it should be battery wired directly to controller, then a thin wire from positive + of the battery, into the keyswitch then into the power signal (switch) of both controllers to turn it on and off
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Ok, if it will work as is, can I leave it :D? is it dangerous? and by killing the signal too will that have any bad affect?
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Here's a diagram to how the above is wired.
(http://www.arhservices.co.uk/apaclark/switch-diagram-image.gif)
Can someone check and confrim please?
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seeing your diagram I think is correct.
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Yes that will work, but there is a switched positive that goes to the controller for on/off so you should really wire it to the swiched input from the keyswitch. Andrew, you probably have a decent keyswitch, but rather than risk burning it out you should wire it to the switched input.
where the purple lines mark the positive signal wire going to the controller
otherwise the alarm feature won't work..
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Cheers mate, thanks for coming to the rescue. I will rewire tomorrow with fresh eyes. A steep learning curve as usual :D
As for soldering, is it ok to reheat an re-use soldered connectors. For instance, on Anderson connector spades is it ok to re-heat and melt solder in order to re-use the spades?
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Of course mate you can do it a million times
If you are like me, you never get it right the first time anyway! lol
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cooooool ;D - like Fonzie
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(http://www.arhservices.co.uk/apaclark/IMAG0034.jpg)
Sorted ;)
thanks m8!
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I've now wired both controller throttle wires, cruise and brake :) All I need now is a replacement rear motor that is 36v and not 24. the waiting game begins again :'(
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otherwise the alarm feature won't work..
I'm sorry I've not been able to respond before, but I've been somewhat preoccupied with my daughter's wedding this weekend.
I'm not sure if the alarm feature is still available with the later controllers, but if it does work, please note that the alarm/anti-theft function will not activate unless the bike is moved backwards, and even if activated, it will not prevent the bike from being ridden away due to the minimotor's freewheel device. :(
Alan
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otherwise the alarm feature won't work..
I'm sorry I've not been able to respond before, but I've been somewhat preoccupied with my daughter's wedding this weekend.
I'm not sure if the alarm feature is still available with the later controllers, but if it does work, please note that the alarm/anti-theft function will not activate unless the bike is moved backwards, and even if activated, it will not prevent the bike from being ridden away due to the minimotor's freewheel device. :(
Alan
Hi Alan, hope you and your family have had a cracking weekend! :)
As far as the alarm is concerned it's not an issue, I just want to make sure all my wiring has been done properly for the dual motors to work together and for my ignition key to work so I don't have to pull any connectors apart once fitted inside my frame bag(perhaps I should have mentioned that :D). So,, Is the ignition key now wired correctly? Also, I understand that reverse is of no use either due to the freewheeling hub?
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The ignition key is setup correctly.
Which magic controllers do you have?
If they are the newest ones, let me know if the alarm function still works..
And you are also correct, that the "reverse" function will NOT work on the mini motors because of the freewheel. Reverse does work if you have a non-freewheeled motor.
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Nice Job Andrew! I am also interested in how well this works. Mine is wired up like your first diagram.
Gary
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otherwise the alarm feature won't work..
Is the ignition key now wired correctly?
Yup sure is. Lol why isn't anyone confident with anything I say? haha
see attached
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Hi Alan, hope you and your family have had a cracking weekend! :)
We did have a fantastic weekend and were very fortunate to have such lovely weather for the photos, but I expect we're all squinting because it was so very sunny. ;D
I don't have to pull any connectors apart once fitted inside my frame bag (perhaps I should have mentioned that :D).
It might be advisable to disconnect your power cable from your frame bag when not being used, as there may still be a slight current drain on the pack while it is connected to the two controllers, even with the key switch turned off.
Alan
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ok, thanks Alan, that should not be a problem. :)
All the soldering and wiring is done. Both wheels/motors are now in place, all that's left to do is plug everything into the controllers and to locate the wires neatly. I have not fired it up as yet, so I hope it's not all in vain.
At present i've had to wire up one motor which has a sticker saying it's 36v and another saying it's a 24v. Both controllers are set to 36v 6amp continuous and 9amp peak.
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otherwise the alarm feature won't work..
Is the ignition key now wired correctly?
Yup sure is. Lol why isn't anyone confident with anything I say? haha
see attached
Well, the bike is now running both motors ;D. the only problem is the ignition switch when off only turns off the rear motor and not the front >:( In the off position the throttle lights still lights up red??
Do I really need to have the thin red "power switch" wires connected. I really have no need for an alarm and never had any need for one. Am I going to have to rewire the Andersons back to how I first had it?
Also is it possible to have the ignition wired so I don't need to unplug the Andersoins as well. It seems a bit pointless having and ignition key if I have to unplug the connectors too??
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Hi buddy
depends on the rating of your switch I guess...
If it was me, id go with the original wiring.....off means off, but if your ignition switch isnt rated high enough, then the on off will eventually burn it out....
My guess is that you are only going to use the minimotor bike for the weekend etc, so I think that the original wiring is probably the best, so you have no worries or concerns once you cut that switch
You have the pie for the day to day cycling...so overuse is not going to be the problem I think
does anyone have any negative stories on the controller burning out on lack of precharge connection ?
regards
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otherwise the alarm feature won't work..
Is the ignition key now wired correctly?
Yup sure is. Lol why isn't anyone confident with anything I say? haha
see attached
Well, the bike is now running both motors ;D. the only problem is the ignition switch when off only turns off the rear motor and not the front >:( In the off position the throttle lights still lights up red??
Do I really need to have the thin red "power switch" wires connected. I really have no need for an alarm and never had any need for one. Am I going to have to rewire the Andersons back to how I first had it?
Also is it possible to have the ignition wired so I don't need to unplug the Andersoins as well. It seems a bit pointless having and ignition key if I have to unplug the connectors too??
I've had the same problem with one of my magic controllers (36v V2)..
The 'G' wire had no effect on "turning off" the controller.
I suspect, by mistake (or on purpose), they soldered the 'g' wire connection to the main power line INSIDE the controller.
I wanted to use it for setting the alarm function, but alas, couldn't.
Can you tell me on which controller (is it a new one or one of the "earlier" type?) that the 'G' wire is "working"? And if it is working, does it set the alarm when switched "off"?
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there seems to be no alarm on my controllers. both controller were purchased two week ago so I guess they are the newer ones. I've rewired today and have left out the ignition key as it was taking up space and I lost patience with rewiring it.