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Hall sensor error, all 3 sensors stuck on 2.79v?

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Jop Amsterdam:
Hello wonderful people,

my GM 5kw stopped running and my sin wave controller is giving me the 5 led blinks to indicate "HALL input is abnormal".

before it completely stopped working I had a escalating problem where if I stood still for a traffic light or such my engine would act as if it was in e-lock and I had to switch the system off and back on again through the "ignition" key before it would run again.

i now repeatedly measured my hall sensor wires and strangely all 3 seem to be more or less stuck on the same 2.79volts output.

if I spin the wheel the voltages drop slightly but never all the way to 0 and they never go up to the normal 5.

i'm at a loss to what could be the problem here, do I have a short somewhere, do I measure something wrong?

any advise/pointers would be extremely welcome.

thank you in advance,
Jop

*maybe this should have been posted in the general section? if so, can a mod please move it to there?*

Bikemad:

--- Quote from: Jop Amsterdam on March 21, 2020, 10:56:17 AM ---If I spin the wheel the voltages drop slightly but never all the way to 0 and they never go up to the normal 5.
--- End quote ---

You cannot check the hall sensors properly if the shaft is spinning too fast, as this will simply give a moving average of the high and low voltage signals. You must turn the motor very slowly by hand, and each of the hall sensor output voltages should then switch high or low every 45 degrees of the motor's shaft rotation.

The Hall signal output voltage may not go as high as 5V even when there is a full 5V being supplied on the Red +5V wire, so anywhere between 2.5V and 5V is probably acceptable, however I would expect the low voltage to be around 0V.

If you can observe an obvious low/high switching between 0V and at least 2.5V on all three sensors (4 times per shaft revolution), I would say that the Hall sensors are working correctly.

I would also check that the Black Hall sensor wire is properly grounded by checking that it reads ~0V relative to the B- terminal on the controller.

Alan
 

Jop Amsterdam:
hey Bikemad,

i tested them by rolling the wheel as slow over the ground as slow as possible (i have it in a 3 wheeled transport motorcycle that is heavy as f* to lift) as but since I have a planetary gearbox attached I might still have turned it too quick, I will give it another try with the wheel off the ground.

but since they all 3 do give a similar voltage i'm kind of loosing hope its a simple fix, if it is not a faulty hall sensor (or their wires/connections) is there any other know problem that could cause the abnormal hall input?

like said, at first it felt if my elock was acting up but I guess that wouldn't cause the controller to blink 5 times?

Tommycat:
Just checking to see if you verified a solid 5vdc or so to the hall sensors supply wires? (Red and Black)





If you'd like to test the halls without the controller... using your own power source, and eliminating the controller as a possible problem. I've found this thread helpful. You will need your own 5vdc power source, and a 10K resistor.

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/general-aa/39891-hall-sensor-testing-without-using-a-motor-controller



Regards,
T.C.

Jop Amsterdam:
Yeah I did, red and black is normal, white and black is normal.

If anyway possible I would love to fix this without taking my motor and controler out.

Its possible to bench them, but these things are build in hard, check my only other thread for pictures of my bike, they are quite unique.

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