Hi Juul,
If the controller is losing all battery power when the motor cuts out, it could be the battery's
BMS cutting the power off completely, this might also prevent the controller from emitting any error flashes/beeps.
If the
BMS is cutting the power to the controller, it could be due to a single weak cell whose individual voltage is dropping below the
BMS minimum safe cell voltage
(typically 2.5V for LiFePO4) causing the
BMS to disconnect the power.
Are you able to immediately restart the motor using less throttle after the motor has cut out, or do you have to wait several minutes before it can be restarted again?
I think it is unlikely to be the battery settings as the default 48V settings
(which are used for LiFePO4, LiPo/LiIon and Lead Acid batteries) would only stop the motor working if the battery voltage dropped below 42V under load
(which is 2.625V per cell for a 16S LiFePO4 battery).
Could the motor or controller be getting to hot under moderate load causing the thermal protection to cut in?
11 regular flashes/beeps indicates the Controller is overheating or 13 regular flashes/beeps indicates Motor over-heat protection has been activated
(Motor temperature is higher than default safe value).
Regarding the Programming problem, are you sure that COM0 is the correct port that your USB program lead is connected to?
Click on the dropdown menu button to see if other ports are available.
If you open device manager, you should be able to see which port the USB-SERIAL-CH340 is actually plugged into:
If USB-SERIAL-CH340 does not show up in device manager, it looks like your PC/laptop is not recognising it and you may need to install the
CH340 driver before plugging in the USB programming lead.
The most recent version of the PI-800 program
(v3.3.0.b150501) can be downloaded
here.
Please let me know if any of this helps.
Alan