Author Topic: VEC300 48V BLDC Controller  (Read 7375 times)

Offline Canieldruz

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VEC300 48V BLDC Controller
« on: May 07, 2017, 06:11:19 PM »
Hello,

I'm trying to hook up a motor circuit for the first time. I am using a 5kW BLDC motor, with the VEC 300 controller. After I connect everything (I think) is needed, the controller gives me 5 LED flashes (Hall sensor fault).

If I disconnect or move around the hall a bit, the motor shaft will sometimes slightly move or complete one rotation, but that's all it will do and then I will get 5 flashes again. I'm assuming it's the hall sensor, but not sure.

Here is what I have connected: battery, phase cables, e-lock to a switch and B+ terminal, hall sensor, reverse with 3.3V input, and a throttle that we have simulated using a circuit and some resistors connected to an Arduino board, running 5V on red/white cable, about 3V on green/white, and 0V on GND. The brake cable, speed cruise, and high brake are left unconnected.

Am I missing anything that needs to be connected? Are we missing anything in the simulated throttle or is this really just a hall sensor fault?

Any input is appreciated.

Thank you,


Daniel

Offline Bikemad

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Re: VEC300 48V BLDC Controller
« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2017, 07:23:15 PM »
Hi Daniel,

If your throttle signal output is preset at 3V when you power up the controller I would not expect the motor to run until the throttle voltage had dropped below ~1v to deactivate the safety feature that prevents the motor from running when you accidentally power up the controller with the throttle already pressed/twisted.

The throttle signal voltage from the Hall sensor throttles is usually ~0.8V and the motor usually starts to turn at ~1.25V and reaches maximum rpm at ~3.5V.

If the throttle signal voltage is either too low or too high, the controller will refuse to run, as an excessively low or high throttle signal voltage would normally indicate a fault with either the throttle unit or its wiring.

Make sure that the Hall sensor wires and the three Phase wires are all connected to the correct terminals on the controller:



If the controller thinks one or more of the Hall sensors are not connected or not working correctly, you can use a voltmeter to check that the signal voltages switch between ~0v and ~4.5V in relation to Ground (battery -) when the motor is turned slowly by hand.

Each Hall sensor output should switch High and Low four times for each complete revolution of the motor shaft.

If I disconnect or move around the hall a bit, the motor shaft will sometimes slightly move or complete one rotation, but that's all it will do and then I will get 5 flashes again. I'm assuming it's the hall sensor, but not sure.

I am puzzled as to what "hall" you are referring to, and how are you actually moving it around?  ???

I'm also not sure which throttle type you will need to select for your Arduino board setup to work, as I seem to recall there is only a choice between "Hall effect throttle" and "Potentiometer throttle".  ::)

Alan
 

Offline Canieldruz

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Re: VEC300 48V BLDC Controller
« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2017, 08:24:41 PM »
What we have is a wire going from the 5V pin on the Arduino going to a breadboard that has a couple of resistors on it  and we have three other wires (5V, 3V, 0V) on the same breadboard that also connect to the throttle connection. We wanted to see if we could simulate one that runs at a constant Voltage output, but I am guessing it is more complicated than we assumed.

The hall sensor I'm referring to is the one connecting to the motor that is labeled as Hall/thermal sensors. All I do is switch on the circuit, if the LED blinks five times, I disconnect this sensor and try again. Sometimes the 5 blinks go away and at that point I connect the throttle and the the shaft moves for a split second and stops.

Offline Canieldruz

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Re: VEC300 48V BLDC Controller
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2017, 08:56:33 PM »
Also, at what rate should the voltage from the throttle increase from 0-5V?

Offline Canieldruz

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Re: VEC300 48V BLDC Controller
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2017, 09:45:41 PM »
I just measured the voltage across all Hall wires (green, blue, yellow, red, white) and I have about 2.9V on green, blue, yellow, but I have about 9V on red and 3.3V on white. I read on one of your other posts that these need to have at least 4.5V each, so may this also be a problem?

Offline Bikemad

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Re: VEC300 48V BLDC Controller
« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2017, 12:27:01 AM »
Also, at what rate should the voltage from the throttle increase from 0-5V?

The throttle signal voltage increases in real time in direct response to the throttle position and is usually within the 0.8V~4.5V range. Ideally it should not drop below 0.8V and should not go above ~4.6V.

I just measured the voltage across all Hall wires (green, blue, yellow, red, white) and I have about 2.9V on green, blue, yellow, but I have about 9V on red and 3.3V on white. I read on one of your other posts that these need to have at least 4.5V each, so may this also be a problem?

The +5V power supply to the Hall sensors is supplied via the Red and Black wires (Red = +5V and Black = 0V).
Double check the voltage across these two wires (just in case the Black Hall sensor ground wire does not share a common ground with the Battery - connection).
I would expect to see a reading of somewhere between 4.5V and 5V, but not as high as 9V.  :-\

You can use a voltmeter to check that the signal voltages switch between ~0v and ~4.5V in relation to Ground (battery -) when the motor is turned slowly by hand.

Each Hall sensor output should switch High and Low four times for each complete revolution of the motor shaft.

Did they fluctuate from high to low when the motor was turned slowly or was the 2.9V you measured on the Hall sensor wires just a steady constant voltage?

Take a look at this post and this video for more details on testing the operation of the hall sensors.

If the Yellow, Green, and Blue Hall sensor signal wires outputs are not all alternating between ~0v and ~4.5V as the motor is turned slowly, then the Hall sensors are definitely not working correctly.

The White wire is the output from the motor temperature sensor, which is typically connected to one end of a thermistor, and the other end of the thermistor is connected to the Hall sensors' common Ground wire (the Black wire).

The 3.3V measured on the White wire may well be normal, but I don't know for sure.

If the Hall sensor signals remain constant and the Hall sensor +5V supply is too high (9V), you will have to contact your supplier and explain that the motor is faulty, and possibly the controller too  :(.

Alan