General Category > Electric Motorcycle Conversion
3kw Non-hub Moped Conversion help
Knightgreider:
Hey everyone, I bought the non-hub 3kw fan cooling motor and the VEC200/72Vdc controller to convert a 1980 Garelli super sport into an electric cafe racer. This is my first major project. I recently joined so I could figure this out. I am so glad that this exists! I thought it would be plug and play, it was... almost. My project is using a contactor and 2 custom made 36v 10.5ah 18650 battery packs wired in series. My problem is that I hooked everything up yesterday and it worked!... for 3 seconds. Now every time I turn on the switch on the throttle grip the contactor turns on but the motor doesn't turn over at all. I double-checked all the connections and saw if I was getting the right voltage still to the controller. The controller blinks when the batteries are connected but I never figured out how to turn it off besides the switch on the throttle twist grip. I still can add an on-off switch, I suppose in one of the connections between the batteries and the controller.
The moderator "BikeMad" gave me some good advice about my project.
I am looking to see what he meant by a GM brake lever for regen. I thought that it had regenerative braking already? He also said a brake switch. I didn't buy a brake switch when I bought my kit. I was looking through all the images online and I can't seem to find it. He said if I rigged one up, make sure it's turned off. Has anyone else rigged up a brake switch or have had this problem? If so, how do I do that? Do I need a GM Brake lever? I found this topic:
https://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=5874.0
But I don't know if this pertains to me.
I plugged my controller into the computer and it still appears to be working correctly. So I know it's not destroyed.
Would this work for what I need? https://www.goldenmotor.ca/products/Three-Button-Switch-for-External-Controllers.html
Attached is my nerd self with the bike yesterday.
Thank you for any help I can get!
Bikemad:
This is what I meant by the GM brake lever:
It incorporates a switch that stops the motor power and simultaneously engages the regen when the lever is pulled.
If you don't have GM brake levers (or any other form of brake switch) then you don't need to worry, as not having a brake switch will not cause your non-running problem. ;)
If the controller has full battery voltage across its input terminals (at least 72V) then the contactor is obviously closing correctly.
You might want to consider some form of precharge system (if not already incorporated) to extend the life of the contactor's contacts.
It is difficult to tell from your photo which wires are connected from the throttle unit and where they are connected to. Perhaps you can provide some more details on these connections and how the contactor is switched (I presume the battery feed goes to the throttle switch and then back to the 72V contactor's excitation terminal).
If you are using a 48V GM throttle, the green Battery gauge LED wire should not be connected, as 72~84V is likely to overload it causing it to run hot and probably fail very quickly. :o
Failure of the Battery gauge circuit board due to higher than expected voltage should not present a problem, unless it failed in a short circuit state and the subsequent high current burns the wires coming from the throttle. :-\
The number of regular blinks from the controller should hopefully indicate where the fault lies, but you will need to check the table on page 5 of the user guide for more details.
Does the controller or motor make any noise when the throttle is operated?
Alan
Knightgreider:
Hi Alan, I was on vacation sorry for the late response.
Were you talking about this GM Brake kit?
https://www.goldenmotor.ca/products/Brake-Levers-for-External-Controllers.html
I will look at the controller tomorrow when I have time to go to the garage. The controller was blinking. The controller or throttle doesn't make any noise when operated. :-\
Depending on my diagnosis I will get the GM brake kit and another throttle if I need one; based on the blinks right?
Thanks again for your help!
Bikemad:
--- Quote from: Knightgreider on September 25, 2018, 11:44:11 PM ---Were you talking about this GM Brake kit?
https://www.goldenmotor.ca/products/Brake-Levers-for-External-Controllers.html
--- End quote ---
Yes, but as I previously stated, if they are not fitted, they will not be causing the problem. They would only cause the motor not to run if they were fitted and one of them (or both) was not fully released and was still activating the brake switch:
(Click picture to enlarge.)
Hopefully the above picture will make it a little bit clearer.
You now need to determine what the fault code is (the number of regular blinks) to hopefully locate the problem.
Alan
Motolittle:
Hey there it sounds like you may have the same issue I did with the Hall sensors. See my previous post the one right before this one. I have the same motor and speed control. When I hooked mine all up it spun one time than would not work. I found it was a Hall sensor combination issue. If you have issues or more questions let me know.
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