General Category > Electric Motorcycle Conversion
3kw bldc motorcycle conversion issues/questions
Motolittle:
Also what should the Hall sensors voltage be if I measure it by spinning the wheel with the system plugged in? Thx. I believe about 0 volts in off stage and 5 volts in on stage. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Thank you again in advance
Motolittle:
Without reconfiguring the Hall sensors I changed the phase wires to:
U=green V= blue W= yellow.
Now the motor spins in the counterclockwise direction.... but it doesn't seem to have any issues where it doesn't want to start.... does this make any sense to you? The Motor also seems like it has more power... but of course I need it to run in the clockwise direction for my application. But I don't understand why the factory wiring was spinning in counterclockwise but not wanteing to always spin.
Bikemad:
If a reverse switch was connected and turned on (or the two reverse wires were touching each other) this would cause the counterclockwise rotation of the motor, and might also prevent the controller from being programmed. :-\
As you now seem to have the motor running correctly (albeit in the wrong direction?) it might be that the Hall sensor wires and/or the Phase wires may have been incorrectly colour matched during assembly of the motor.
--- Quote from: Motolittle on August 22, 2018, 06:28:09 PM ---Now the motor spins in the counterclockwise direction... but of course I need it to run in the clockwise direction for my application.
--- End quote ---
Are you sure that you need clockwise rotation? As the chain and sprockets are both on the left hand side, they should both rotate counterclockwise to drive the bike forwards.
However, if you do still need to reverse the motor's direction, I would simply swap the Green and Yellow Hall sensor wires over and then find the correct matching combination of Phase wires.
As your current Phase wire configuration is:
U = Green
V = Blue
W = Yellow
One of the three following Phase wire options should work correctly with the Green and Yellow Hall sensor wires transposed:
* Green and Blue Phase wires transposed
U = Blue
V = Green
W = Yellow
* Green and Yellow Phase wires transposed
U = Yellow
V = Blue
W = Green
* Blue and Yellow Phase wires transposed
U = Green
V = Yellow
W = Blue
--- Quote from: Motolittle on August 22, 2018, 02:07:30 AM ---Also what should the Hall sensors voltage be if I measure it by spinning the wheel with the system plugged in? Thx. I believe about 0 volts in off stage and 5 volts in on stage. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Thank you again in advance
--- End quote ---
The maximum Hall sensor output voltage will vary in relation to the +5V supply. If the +5V supply is ~4V, then maximum the signal output will be even lower than the supply voltage (less than ~4V). The important check is that they all alternate between high and low voltage as the motor is rotated slowly.
If your motor runs smoothly and there are no dead spots (positions where it can't self-start) your Hall sensors must be working correctly. ;)
Alan
Motolittle:
Alan sir you are a gentleman and a scholar!!!! Combination # 3 worked!!! I will report more later. Now I can proceed with the build!! THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!!!
Motolittle:
Well guys after much building and progress forward I have ran into another issue..
I have had the whole system working for a few months! To Be honest this whole system has ran great! I now have a 14:1 gear ratio so no motor getting hot or speed control hot or battery hot.
After a ride today the bike quit working so I unplugged it immediately. Upon re plugging in to diagnose the battery arced pretty bad and the BMS cut power to the speed control.
Next I tried to push the bike as I had it unplugged and it was so hard to push like regen was on....
So I unplugged the motor and it began to spin free again. I checked all connections and all wires for continuity and the oddest thing was I had continuity between the input blocks on the speed control. ... I unplugged everything but the battery and speed control and no matter what I do the battery BMS shuts off power because something is shorting in the controller.
I don't get it for sure ... I tried to connect a computer to the motor controller via my USB link and it would not show up at all...
Any help would be appreciated!!
What we know: battery still good
Motor spins free and phase wires when touched in pairs slow motor equally each combo.
Motor controller : Vector 200 72 volts not responding to voltage at all and shorting on input terminals
Throttle: standard gm throttle 48 volt. Have not tested yet unsure how.
Please help and thanks in advance !!!!!
Throttle
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version