Newb having trouble with mini motor and BAC-501

[simplyfly]

Hey guys... I have a pair of mini motors, front and rear, and a pair of BAC-501 48V controllers.

The battery I am using is Litium Ion 5p 3s 9.9V 4200mAh SO my fully charged pack has a V =  54V

I connected the system, and have not been able to get any response from the motor.

I am wondering if it has something to do with the way I have connected the BAC-501, or its internal programming / settings.

The wire harness I received from GM has an unlabeled lead, labeled B= and connected to the ground loop. I can only assume this lead is used for lights, or perhaps a switch?

I have the b+ switch wire connected to the B+ Terminal. When the battery is connected, system should be on....

Here is a picture of my connections..... any help would be very welcome

[Bikemad]

What is the low voltage cut off in the new 100A speed controller??

I had it running, using a pair of 24V batteries. Each battery was 26V, 52V and it ran smooth.

Those batteries were just to test. So I connected the system to the bike, and connect my Lipo battery, reading 49V. Not fully charged, but enough?

No power Checking my connections...

Unfortunately, I have not yet seen a wiring diagram for the BAC-501 controller, but I assume the wiring for the controller must have been correct if the motor worked initially, so did you ever locate the cause of your original problem?

Have you checked to see if the hall sensor signal voltages are alternating between 0 and 5V when the wheel is turned backwards slowly by hand?

It might also be helpful to post a screen print of your current controller settings.

I'm also curious as to why are you using such powerful controllers on mini motors that are not able to withstand anywhere near the amount of current they can supply.
Pushing 100Amps through a mini motor is likely to burn the internal wiring (or strip the teeth off the plastic gears) in a very short time.

Alan
 

[simplyfly]

just because I have "100A" doesn't mean I need to use it all... I will likely not pull more than 20A constant from it, with loads of headroom, and little chance of burn of the controller.

Can someone verify that I have the correct wiring from this photo?
Cheers

[simplyfly]

Can anyone help?

I have followed the wire diagram best I could.... I am not using a switch... so then is this connected properly or not?

I have tried two of everything, twice... arrgh and I know it will work. I did at one point have it going, last year... now I am stumped

[simplyfly]

Received the new throttles.. even though the ones I had were new, or at least never used....

No joy. I have lights... that say the battery is full....  but no response from the motor, or for that matter Gary @ GM canada...

The connections and every component are all new ... what is the issue?

I will have to order the programmer, and try my luck. The last time I tried to program the controllers I was left with two "bricked controllers".... The software never ran properly on my machine.

If anyone out there is willing to look at this, I am willing to ship it to you at my expense. If you can get it to work, I will pay you $50.

I will pre pay return shipping... I am $1500 in the hole and I have nothing but a few cheesy lights on a plastic throttle to indicate that any thing at alll is working.

If I order the programmer... then find out I am incapable of programming the controller... who is there to turn to Gary ? Golden Motor? Youtube?

any help would be much apreciated.

[Morgen 3Eman]

Hi Fly,

Let me start out by telling you I have absolutely zero knowledge of your particular suite of controller/motor.  And I don't want your money.

However, I have noticed that a number of similar problems have been caused by brake switches  being activated.  ( Including my own)  The switch cuts the MP3 motors' power, and puts them in regen mode.  Maybe yours is similar.

TTFN,
Dennis

[Morgen 3Eman]

By the way, if your controller is set to push 100 Amps into the motor, and you crank open the throttle, the controller will try to push 100 Amps into the motor, limited only by the motor resistance.   Whether you think you want it or not. 

TTFN,
Dennis

[simplyfly]

How were you able to solve the problem ?

[Morgen 3Eman]

Hi Fly,

I just disconnected the brake lever connectors. 

By the way, Bikemad asked about a problem you had least year.  Have you figured out an answer?

And what switch are you talking about in:

"I have followed the wire diagram best I could.... I am not using a switch... so then is this connected properly or not?"

TTFN,
Dennis

[simplyfly]

yes, its connected properly. no switch, no brakes, no cruise, just power and throttle for now. As things progress, I wll add features....

[simplyfly]

I will try testing the hall sensors... This is all new equipment... so I can't see why the sensors would fail.

The motor ran on the bench... so I know it works, but when installed on the bike, no good!

One more go around... it must be something to do with the connections. The wire from the motor is so brittle (aluminum?) I wonder if they have broken off inside the wire housing...

[simplyfly]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMeQ7eBWQoo&feature=youtu.be

[Morgen 3Eman]

Hi Fly

Remember, I have no direct knowledge of your stuff. 

I watched the video a couple of times, and I have a few things:

There is no wire in sight that looks to me like it is rated for 100 Amps.   Is there any sign of discoloration or bubbling on any of the wiring?  Are there areas that seem stiff? or floppy?  What wire is brittle?  These are all signs of overheating.  I have seen much larger wires burnt open by much less than 100 amps. 

There is a connector pair of yellow and white, with a red wire mating with a green wire.  What is that connecting?  As an old gear head, seeing red and green wires connected together scares the hell out of me.  Differing color connector pairs scare the hell out me, too. 

There are a lot of interconnections  that I assume are made with solder joints.  Bad electromechanical connections caused about 80% of all the electronics problems I resolved in a 40 year career as a troubleshooter.   What is your soldering experience?  What equipment and supplies did you use?  How did you join the wires before soldering?

Do you have access to a digital voltmeter?

How recently did you have this working on the bench?  Was it exactly this assembly of parts? 

Several times you have stated "no switch".  What switch are you not talking about? 

There was a shot of a red wire with a bulge in the middle.  It looked like it was on a seat or something.  What is that for, and if it is important enough to photograph, why isn't in the circuit?

How do you plan to test the hall sensors?

TTFN,
Dennis

[simplyfly]

Dennis, thanks for your input....

The controller has a connection, to the power switch. this connects to the B+ terminal. I have omited a switch, and have connected it directly to the battery.

The wire leads from the battery (50c LiFeP04 cells) are capable of 100A... the wires for the mini motors comming from the controller I will most certainly not take 100A. I will use the throttle sparingly...

When I ran the motor on the bench, without ant resistance, it sran fine... no heat, no smoke, no problems. Of course, underload, this will change. Either way... there are no bulges... the wires are stock, and connected directly, and correctly.

I have two motors, two controllers, two throttles, all new, all stock from the dealer... take a close look at the video, and at the picture at the top of this thread. The connections are all by the book, according to the PDF that golden motor produced.

It looks like I have no other option than to assume that the programming of the controller is the issue... another $50.....

Finally.... and for the last time, can anyone tell me what the stock settings are for the BAC - 0501 controller?

Gary? you out there???

[simplyfly]

the very hard to find PDF....http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CEoQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.goldenmotor.com%2Fgoldshop%2Fpfiles%3Ftype%3Djpg%26id%3D190&ei=nR8pUoylIKqY2QWPyYGwCg&usg=AFQjCNHej_QBZ7iZw9rs_qpBl2gE8FAWDg&sig2=-B2muVbV9Een5rvY6fl-hA&bvm=bv.51773540,d.b2I