GoldenMotor.com Forum

Mark, the holes in the frame bracket are not threaded, they are just clearance holes for the M6 bolts that pass through them and then thread into the caliper mounting piece:



Please note that you only need to fabricate the section shown in blue (not the entire bracket) and it may have to be shaped differently to fit your particular frame:



Here's an example of a different bracket shape:



The most important thing to get right is the distance between the two 6mm mounting holes and the distance of each of these holes relative to the centre of your axle.
Please note that the centre of your 14mm diameter axle is likely to be at least 2mm lower than the one shown in the dropout above for a standard 10mm axle (unless you have already filed 2mm into the dropouts)

Alan.
 

1. The light/horn connector should connect to the four unterminated wires coming from the junction block on the main Control Harness:



One of my Magic Pie Harnesses was equipped with a three pin connector which was presumably meant to connect directly to a battery voltage headlamp/horn unit (which I don't have) with a matching three pin connector.
The Red Lighting feed wire is connected to one of the outer pins, the Yellow Horn feed wire is connected to the middle pin and the two Black and Blue Ground wires are both connected to the remaining outer pin.

2. If your existing frame does not have mountings for a disc brake caliper you may be able to use a bolt on adapter kit to mount the caliper to your frame.
I have not tried any of these kits and I'm not sure how suitable they would be for your particular frame or for use with a 14mm diameter wheel axle.
If you have a steel frame (or forks) and want to try and fabricate some steel mounts to weld/braze onto your frame/forks, then these drawings may help:





3. I would use either electrical insulation tape or nylon zip ties to secure the brake cable (or hydraulic pipe) to the frame.

Alan
 
 

Hi Chuy andto the forum.

I don't have any experience with the EggRider display but I would expect the speed and odometer readings to both be effected equally by the wheel size/circumference settings.
As your mileage is reading too low, I suggest that you try increasing the wheel size/circumference until the speed and odometer readings matches the GPS speed and distance figures.

To measure your tyre's actual circumference do the following;
Make a chalk line on the ground and place your front wheel with the valve stem at the bottom of the wheel directly above the chalk line.
Roll the bike forward in a straight line one complete wheel revolution until the valve stem is again at the bottom of the wheel.

Make another chalk line directly below the valve and then measure the distance between the two chalk lines in mm.
(if you don't have a metric tape measure you can convert inches to mm by multiplying them by 25.4.)
Make sure that you measure the same wheel that the speed sensor is attached to. 

If entering the correct circumference does not cure the problem (i.e. the speed reads correctly compared to the GPS figures but the odometer does not) then you would need to enter the required offset value into the "ODO Offset" field to correct the odometer readings (make sure you also click the "Write" button to save it).

Example: If a 10 mile trip shows only 9.2 miles on the odometer, try entering an ODO offset value of 1.087 (10/9.2) and see if it sorts the odometer readings.
If this offset makes the odometer reading even lower, try entering a value of 0.92 instead (9.2/10).

Please let us know how you get on.

Alan
 

Hi Renaud andto the forum.

As you are using BAC0281 controllers, you will need to use the earlier PD_282 Programming software, and with this software, the programming is usually carried out with the battery disconnected (or turned OFF on the battery switch if applicable).

Please read the following installation instructions, especially if you are experiencing problem reopening the software after saving changes:


Click image to view full size.

On some controllers, the gate connection was internally bridged, which means the controller will remain active while the battery power is turned ON.
I suggest switching the throttle signal wires to enable/disable the motors.
The following diagram should also work for the external BAC0281 controllers:



The 12K resistors were required for some Magic Pies to prevent a throttle error when the throttle signal wire was open circuit, but I'm not sure if the BAC0281 controllers will suffer from the same problem.

If you are running both controller from a single throttle, make sure that the +5V supply from both controllers are not joined together, as this can sometimes cause problems.

As one of your controllers works OK and the other does not, it could be incorrect settings in the controller or possible different wiring or even a faulty controller.

Make sure the non-working controller is programmed the same as the working one and then swap the controller wiring harness if necessary.
If the non-working controller doesn't work with the working program parameters and wiring harness, then the controller is probably faulty.

Alan
 

I don't know where this year has gone, but we're nearly at the end of it already.



I hope none of you are on Santa's "Naughty" list this year and that you all have a wonderful Christmas time.



Alan