Recent Posts

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General Discussions / Filter Ideas for Liquid Cooled Outboard Motor
« Last post by Karottop on March 14, 2024, 02:19:14 AM »
I decided to buy the liquid cooled version of the 10 KW 48v motor for use on an outboard. Many outboards just use the lake water to cool the engine on typical internal combustion outboards. I figure I can do the same for this motor since I'll never take in salt water.

If anyone has done this, I have two questions about the approach:

1. Is the motor self priming or do I need to pump water through the motor with a separate water pump?
2. Did you install a filter at the inlet hose? If so, what filter and do you have any trouble mounting it or getting it to pull water into the motor?

Thanks for any advice!
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General Discussions / Re: Air Cooled vs Watercooled BLDC Motor
« Last post by Karottop on March 14, 2024, 02:14:20 AM »
I tested it out today for anyone interested. The short answer is, if you intend to run the motor at more than 100 amps (I have the 48v) then you should opt for the liquid cooled version. Even with fans, it doesn't cool down fast enough. I could run about 200 amps through it for about 10 minutes because the controller started dialing back the throttle gradually.
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General Discussions / I'LL BUY YOUR SEAT POST BATTERY RACK
« Last post by Todd75 on March 11, 2024, 08:10:14 AM »
........Does anybody have a used seat post battery rack they would like to sell?  (Listed here for $60.81 SKU RAK-002) The one that mounts to the seat post ONLY....OR know where one can be ordered new?
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General Discussions / Air Cooled vs Watercooled BLDC Motor
« Last post by Karottop on March 09, 2024, 01:05:54 AM »
Hi There,

I'm new to the forum. I've been working on overhauling an old Ray Electric Outboard lower unit with an air-cooled BLDC motor. The controller came from the factory with a battery current draw limit of 85 amps for some reason. I only know that because I finally got the cable and was able to read the parameters off the controller.

Under those conditions, I ran the motor at 85 amps without any issues for about 30-45 minutes on the lake. I've installed two 150 CFM fans on the outboard cover to help cool the equipment.

Now that I have the cable, I've set the limit to 185 amps. I expect I'll be able to scoot along much faster and maybe even get on plane at that new current level which has been my goal all long. My question is cooling. I expect I won't need to run the outboard at that amp draw for more than about 30ish minutes at any given time. With the cooling fans on, do you expect I'll need to stop to let the motor/controller cool off within that 30-minute period? The rep at Golden Motor said I could get away with the air-cooled version, but I'm curious to hear your perspective
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie IV no go
« Last post by Bikemad on March 08, 2024, 11:03:42 PM »
Hi Mark,

Here are a few suggestions that may help:

Double check that all the connectors are properly plugged together, just in case a wire has been accidentally snagged/pulled whilst putting the bike away etc. or perhaps they were not fully plugged in initially. :-\

Make sure that all the wiring is safely secured away from moving parts i.e. the wheels/tyres, chainwheel, steering and suspension etc. to prevent them from being chaffed or crushed.

Make sure the controller's battery voltage setting is correct for your battery. If it is set to 36V and you are using a 48V battery, it may have worked last time if the battery was partially discharged and its voltage was below 50V.
The voltage of a fully charged 48V battery would be well above the 50V maximum that the 36V controller settings will safely allow, and the motor would therefore not be able to work.

Make sure both brake levers are fully released, as activating the regenerative braking function also disables the throttle.

Was is wet, raining or did you hose down the bike after your last ride? If so, it may be possible that some water has found its way into one of the connectors, or perhaps inside the thumb throttle unit itself.
If water was causing the throttle signal to be higher than expected, when the controller is switched on, the motor would be unable to run due to a safety feature of the controller that prevents the motor from running if the throttle is activated when the power is turned on.

Check out this thread for further information on how water can affect the throttle operation.

Hopefully you will find something obvious.

Alan
 
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Magic Pie IV no go
« Last post by ElectricStreet on March 08, 2024, 08:07:28 PM »
Today I wanted to go for a ride and when I connected the power switch the lights of the thumb throttle lit but the depression of the button did nothing.  I checked the controller and all the numbers come up and I hadn't changed anything since last Saturday when I rode it.  Pleases give me some ideas I'm plumb dumb.  Mark
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General Discussions / Re: Problem with the VEC200 controller
« Last post by Ingridguerci94 on March 05, 2024, 10:30:22 AM »
Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot and potentially fix the issue:

Check for Loose Connections: Ensure all connections related to the Mosfet are secure and properly seated. Loose connections can cause irregularities in the system's operation.

Inspect for Damage: Examine the Mosfet component for any physical damage such as burns, cracks, or signs of overheating. If there is visible damage, the Mosfet may need to be replaced.

Reset the Control Box: Try resetting the control box by powering it off, waiting for a few minutes, and then powering it back on.
Sometimes, this simple step can resolve minor issues. Restarting the machine is like relieving stress with adult sex films. It is a simple but very effective way.

Consult the Manual: Refer to the user manual or documentation provided with your Vector 200 control box for specific troubleshooting steps and error code interpretations. It may offer additional guidance on resolving the Mosfet protection error.

Contact Customer Support: If the issue persists or if you're unsure about performing any troubleshooting steps, it's best to contact the manufacturer's customer support or technical service team. They can provide expert assistance and further guidance on resolving the problem.

Keep in mind that working with electrical components can be dangerous, especially if you're not familiar with the equipment. If you're unsure about how to proceed or if the issue involves complex repairs, it's advisable to seek assistance from a qualified technician or professional.
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General Discussions / Re: ... Steering Headset and Front Wheel Motors ...
« Last post by diverdon on February 28, 2024, 05:12:30 PM »

    Thanks again Alan .. I sorta thought that way ...but didn't have the science to back it up ..Now I do ..
   
   I have torque arms on both sides .. good ones from Grin Technologies ..Canada .. And I ride pretty easy ..no big bumps and pretty slow 7-8 mph Average ..
   
     Ordered a "headset" from Electra (treck) today .. Guess 3 years or so is about time to replace them anyhow ... I just don't like the bicycle being "broke down" .. Especally when the weather is so nice here now .. I tightened the bearings 1/8 inch ? gonna take a "test ride" now ....

     Thanks Again Alan ..Your a lifesaver
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General Discussions / Re: ... Steering Headset and Front Wheel Motors ...
« Last post by Bikemad on February 28, 2024, 12:04:41 PM »
Hi Don,

As you have steel forks that are also fitted with a torque arm you don't need to worry, as the load on the headset is significantly greater from heavy braking forces applied to a conventional wheel than the torsional forces generated from a front mounted hubmotor under full power.  ;)

Forks that are able to be used with disc brakes would be the best option for a front mounted hubmotor as they are designed to withstand torsional forces at the lower end, whereas non-disc brake forks only had to withstand directional forces from the wheel's axle:



The biggest safety concern with a front mounted hubmotor is that the fork's dropouts are simply not designed to cope with any torsional loads from the axle in either direction when a conventional front wheel is used as the wheel bearings prevent this from happening.
However, with a hubmotor, the high torsional forces produced by the stator have to be transmitted through the axle, which is why torque arms should always be fitted when using a hubmotor to help withstand the bidirectional torsional forces produced by the axle within the dropouts while under power and during regenerative braking.

Alan
 
 
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General Discussions / ... Steering Headset and Front Wheel Motors ...
« Last post by diverdon on February 28, 2024, 09:48:14 AM »

     Hello , First I have got to say I'm so VERY Happy with my Magic Pie setup .. I ride 1 1/2 or 2 1/2 hours most every day and it has helped with my health a lot ...

       Today I noticed a "knocking" noise when I went over bumps ... I ride slow 7-8 mph average .. Got home looked it over and it seems the steering head bearings came/got a little loose ..Tightened the nut 1/8th of an inch and the looseness is out now ...
 
    Thing is ...Question is .. I posted in another forum looking for an exploded diagram of the steering head .... And someone came back with a comment that  "I Better Change to a rear hub motor or the bike is going to "Grenade" ...

     I didn't really appreciate that "help" ... Been riding this bike for over 3 years with no problems ...seems to me replacing the steering head bearings would just be a maintainece item ... I have done the rear hub 2 times already ..
 
   Looking at the Bike in a picture I CAN see where a motor tugging on that front wheen could/might cause a problem ...

     Can I get some opinions ? Please ? Seems there are thousands of front hub motors and I have never heard of steering head failures from them ...
 
    Thank You for any help you can give ... Don
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