GoldenMotor.com Forum

Hi Leon,

The controller simply limits the Phase current output to ensure that it doesn't exceed the programmed settings.

However, if the controller becomes too hot under sustained high current output (and high current regen with a non geared motor), it may shut down completely to prevent internal damage until it cools down enough to allow normal operation to be resumed.

Alan
 

Bit of a followup
I took the end plate off, and noticed that the bearing has a bit of fust on the outside.
possibly or probably not an issue but the bearing doesn't look as pristine as is should being sealed in a motor.
There is a side load adjuster and I can get rid of a lot of the noise by increasing the preload, and cna increase the noise by loosening the preload.
The bottom bearing also looks less than fresh so I am going to replace the bearings.

Possibly of use to someone - upper bearing NSK 6304Z, lower (output) bearing NSK 6006Z.  They are commonly available.

I'll report back once I get the new bearings.

I think it may be under-propped as the original motor is designed to run at 5-6,000 rpm.
I suspect that a larger diameter/pitch prop will be needed to allow the motor to run at a lower speed and produce a lot more thrust.

According to the dynomometer data the HPM48-5000 motor produces its maximum power output @ 3,206 rpm (~6.5kW) and the power output drops significantly as the rpm rises above this figure (~2kW @ 4,000 rpm).

If your motor is reaching 4,000 rpm during normal use it is clearly not producing the power it is supposed to.

A larger diameter/pitch prop should load the motor sufficiently to prevent it from reaching the noisy rpm and produce a much quieter running outboard. 

Alan
 

Hi Charles,

Unless you have a 12V electrical system on your sailboat, using those switches is not going to be straightforward because the LEDs in the rocker switch and the one in the eLock switch will not survive with your 52V battery unless you add suitable resistors on the negative terminal to reduce the voltage across the LEDs.
Unfortunately, the manufacturer's datasheet doesn't list the current draw for the LEDs on the rocker switch, so it is difficult to say what size additional resistor will be required.
The 12V eLock switch would require an additional 1 Watt resistor of approx 3kOhms on the ground wire for the 12V LED to work correctly with your 52V battery (or 4x 3kOhms 1/4W resistors wired in series/parallel like the 30 Ohm resistors shown below).



The only way I can see to use that rocker switch to control the throttle and reverse function would require a couple of 48V relays (one to switch reverse and the other to switch the throttle signal), a diode and a couple of resistors (1.6kOhm and 8.4kOhm) used in series as a simple voltage divider to simulate the fully closed throttle signal voltage (~0.8V) from the 5V supply while the switch is in the centre position (both relays released).
The diode ensures that the throttle relay is energized in both the forward and reverse switched positions.



If your sailboat does have a 12V battery system you can simply use a couple of 12V Relays instead of the 48V relays shown, and you won't need to worry about having additional resistors for the LEDs in both Switches.

I suggest that you check if the potentiometer you listed has 3 pins as it only shows 2 pins in the datasheet, and you will definitely need all three pins to use it with the VEC-300 controller:





Alan
 

Everything about that recording sounded normal (similar to mine) except the high tinny pitch at ~8 seconds (at maximum RPM.)

You can set the max on the controller to be just below that RPM. Load may help.