Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
91
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 no wheel movement on a custom-built E-Trike
« Last post by Bikemad on March 09, 2025, 12:11:34 AM »
Quote from: Weimgi on March 07, 2025, 04:54:52 PM
I only have a mechanical brake that is installed independently to the Magic Pie wheel and I have not
connected/installed the part of the harness that is meant for the brakes.
Could this be a reason why it does not function?

That won't be causing your problem, as the motor should still work fine without the brake sensors connected.

Make sure that the four "unterminated thin wires" coming from the motor harness for Reverse and Pedelec do not have any of their copper cores exposed and touching each other:



It could possibly be a faulty throttle unit that is not sending the correct throttle signal to the controller (Throttle signal voltage should be ~0.8V with throttle released and above 3.25V at full throttle).

If you are considering changing the controller, you might want to remove the controller from the hub and see if the LED on the inside is flashing an error code while the controller is still connected and powered up.
The number of regular flashes relate to different faults:
 A single blink from the LED on the controller circuit board is typically seen when the controller is initially powered up (Simple LED test)
 1 regular flash indicates Over Voltage Protection
 2 regular flashes indicates Under Voltage Protection
 4 regular flashes indicates Stall Protection
 5 regular flashes indicates Hall sensor input is abnormal
 7 regular flashes indicates Phase Wire disconnected
 9 regular flashes Communication problem
14 regular flashes indicates Throttle is not in the idle state when system powered on

Alan
 
92
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 no wheel movement on a custom-built E-Trike
« Last post by Weimgi on March 07, 2025, 04:54:52 PM »
Dear Alan,

first of all, already thank you for taking the time to help me.

Yes, the wheel does turn easily by hand.

The thing is I don't have any brake lever connected "electronicaly" to the Magic Pie.
I only have a mechanical brake that is installed independently to the Magic Pie wheel and I have not
connected/installed the part of the harness that is meant for the brakes.
Could this be a reason why it does not function?

I will recheck all the Pins, but they were looking ok to me.

After this I will do the +5V supply check.

 I was already thinking on buying a Magic Pie 5 controller,
to check if the controller itself is the problem... that's how desperate I am. ;-)

BR Gilles
93
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 no wheel movement on a custom-built E-Trike
« Last post by Bikemad on March 05, 2025, 04:17:01 PM »
Hi Gilles andto the forum.

When you say the "wheel does not turn" I am assuming that it turns easily by hand but not under its own power.

The most common cause when testing a new setup tends to be one of the brake levers has not been connected to the mechanical brake cable and is stuck partially applied, causing the brake switch to remain activated, which will prevent the motor from turning.

If the brake levers are fully installed and the levers are definitely fully released, it may be a faulty brake switch/wiring that is causing the problem.
Unplug both of the brake levers from the main harness and see if the problem still exists. If the throttle then starts working as expected, plug in the brake levers one at a time to see which one is causing the problem.

Another possibility could be a bent pin on one of the connectors. Carefully inspect all of the connectors to make sure that none of the pins have been bent or damaged during the installation.

If you can't see anything obviously wrong with the connector pins the next thing to check would be the +5V supply coming from the controller. Check out this post for further information on how to do this.

Alan
 
94
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Magic Pie 4 no wheel movement on a custom-built E-Trike
« Last post by Weimgi on March 05, 2025, 11:04:49 AM »
Hi to all,

I have built an E-Trike with my son. Everything is ready, but the Magic Pie 4 wheel does not turn
and I am quite desperate.

What I already tried:
At the beginning I had a used 24V battery and it did not fonction and no light on the throttle bar (what I found to be normal afterwards).
There was a click at the controller (which should be normal).
I purchased the USB cable and checked if 24V was selected in the program, it was.

I thought the battery was the problem (because it was showing quite high voltages of up to 32V), so I purchased a new 48V battery with up to 1500 W.
I set the voltage to 48V using the USB cable.
I downloaded the new value to the controller.
I removed the USB cable and shut off the battery afterwards.
The battery is charged.
The lights on the throttle bar are on when the battery is on, BUT
again the wheel does not react at all when pushing the throttle....

 Can anyone please help me, I really want this E-Trike ready for my son...

Regards,
Gilles
95
General Discussions / Re: Controller Power Limit?
« Last post by GrandeDan on March 03, 2025, 02:28:50 PM »
I should add that the controller model is EZ-A48500
96
Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Water Cooling Mass Flow Rate?
« Last post by GrandeDan on March 03, 2025, 02:25:21 PM »
I should add that the controller model is EZ-A48500
97
General Discussions / Controller Power Limit?
« Last post by GrandeDan on March 03, 2025, 01:40:04 PM »
Hi All,

I recently had a problem with my motors throttle system. I am using a 5kw BLDC motor and a potentiometer as a throttle. I was using my motor for about 30 minutes just fine. Went to do something else and when I came back a few hours later to use the motor again, I had low power.

My bus amp limit set on my EzKontroller was 92 amps and I was only seeing 35.
The motor and controller were not overheated as it had just sat for hours and never got hot during the first use time.
As I was trying to troubleshoot, I had the throttle at full power, it started to rise from 35 amps up to my limit of 92 amps out of no where.

My ultimate question is, was this a controller limit that I am unaware of with EzKontroller or was this most likely an issue with my potentiometer?

TYIA
98
Electric Boat Conversions / Water Cooling Mass Flow Rate?
« Last post by GrandeDan on March 03, 2025, 01:33:19 PM »
Hi All,

I am working on using the liquid cooled 5kW BLDC motor to run my boat. I am having trouble with cooling though. I have a 5kWh battery and am trying to run wide open for that hour. There doesn't seem to be enough cooling and the motor overheats. Does anybody know the mass flow rate of water that needs to be running through the cooling passage to cool the motor?

Side note: I am using sea water and not a heat exchanger.
99
General Discussions / Re: New member with a few questions
« Last post by Bargo on February 23, 2025, 03:57:01 PM »
Thanks a lot Alan, I appreciate your kind words. I think I have burned the throttle twist itself which is not my concern (reads 75 Ohm between 5v and ground), I was concerned about the throttle controller itself (the one inside the wheel)

I re did the wirings check, and all wires seems to be decent, no shorts. I mounted the cables again, disconnected dead throttle switch, and to my surprise I was measuring voltage from the control harness 5 pin (throttle signal reads  0v) the 5v reads 4.8v but something surprised me happened, while measuring the 4.8v I switched to the resistance mode in the meter, and when measured the 5v the wheel gets spinning as I'm throttling. Not sure what is going on, but something I cant explain, except that in resistance meter, I get some conduction going.

if I connect the 5v with the throttle signal pin, I just hear a click but no movement. Only when I probe that 5v pin with the positive resistance to ground I get the spin :)

resistance is measuring 15-20k OHM On most signal pins, sounds like correct, 5v to throttle signal measures (+19K Ohm)

The cruise signal reads at 3v signal.


100
General Discussions / Re: New member with a few questions
« Last post by Bikemad on February 23, 2025, 02:10:46 PM »
Hi Waheed, it sounds like you're not having much luck at the moment.   ::)

There's a strong possibility that you may have melted some wires inside either the main control harness or the throttle cable wiring.

If the +5V feed on the controller harness was not present with everything plugged in, but it returned with just the throttle disconnected, the short will hopefully be confined to the throttle cable itself.

However, if the +5V feed is not present with with just the throttle disconnected, but it returns when the main harness is unplugged, there will be a short somewhere inside the main harness, but there may also be a short in the throttle cable as well.  :-\

You should be able to use a multimeter to check for continuity (or very low resistance) between all of the pin combinations (especially the +5V pins and Ground pins) on both the main harness and the throttle cable while they are both completely unplugged.

If either or both cables are shorted, it/they will need to be repaired or replaced.



I suspect the high current produced during the initial short caused by the LED failure will have overheated the Battery +, Lighting feed and the Battery - (Ground) wires causing the wire core to melt through the insulation on one of these wires and also melting through the insulation of one of the adjacent wires (probably the Battery - has melted into the +5V) which has caused your problem.

Hopefully it will just be the throttle cable that is damaged. Check out this post and this post for further information on checking the throttle.



Alan
 
Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]