GoldenMotor.com Forum

Hi Waheed, it sounds like you're not having much luck at the moment.   

There's a strong possibility that you may have melted some wires inside either the main control harness or the throttle cable wiring.

If the +5V feed on the controller harness was not present with everything plugged in, but it returned with just the throttle disconnected, the short will hopefully be confined to the throttle cable itself.

However, if the +5V feed is not present with with just the throttle disconnected, but it returns when the main harness is unplugged, there will be a short somewhere inside the main harness, but there may also be a short in the throttle cable as well. 

You should be able to use a multimeter to check for continuity (or very low resistance) between all of the pin combinations (especially the +5V pins and Ground pins) on both the main harness and the throttle cable while they are both completely unplugged.

If either or both cables are shorted, it/they will need to be repaired or replaced.



I suspect the high current produced during the initial short caused by the LED failure will have overheated the Battery +, Lighting feed and the Battery - (Ground) wires causing the wire core to melt through the insulation on one of these wires and also melting through the insulation of one of the adjacent wires (probably the Battery - has melted into the +5V) which has caused your problem.

Hopefully it will just be the throttle cable that is damaged. Check out this post and this post for further information on checking the throttle.



Alan
 

Hello Again,

I hope you are doing well.

I finally was going to complete my collective setup, but at the last mile I did something wrong, I connected a 36v led to my 48 + - which comes out from the throttle 5 pin cable, after a couple of second the +- battery was shorted due to led short. I disconnected everything and now I can read battery normal, I get 5v everywhere where it should be, but I don't see anything on the throttle signal except -0.02v giving that the 5v makes 5v short to ground, I think something is wrong with the board now, but I wanted to confirm if anyone have any better idea

All my best,

Waheed

Hi Allan (All),

Thank you for letting me be part of your forum:)

I am currently building a twin motor setup (https://www.youtube.com/@modularhippo) for a boat, and as I have added some DC Contactors to the mix (my original cables did not cater for this) I just want to make sure I connect everything correctly before I add a battery to the setup.

Question: Watching a video [https://youtu.be/m94Yb3e8vOs?si=jzEWkpVFHQaRhILx] by GoldenMotor NA (Canada I believe). In the video the DC Contactor is wired different from the wiring diagram that I received from Golden Motor China.

In a diagram that I have received from Golden Motor (China) the 'Grey' wire coming from the Motor Controller is connected to the A2 (right side small stud) of the DC Contactor. in the video this same wire is connected to the  A1 (small stud left side on DC Contactor). In other words, the grey wire goes to A1 in video, and A2 DC Contactor in my diagram.  The same goes for the wire that you extend from the spliced KSI wire. In the video the wire connects to the A2 (small stud right side of DC Contactor), and in my diagram it connects to the the A1 (small stud left side on DC Contactor). In other words, two contradictions. Can I assume that either setup will work as long as the 'Grey' and 'extended KSI spliced wire' are on opposite sides from each other?

Don't want to add battery to the mix until I am 100% sure I have connected it all correctly, so grateful for any help I can get:)

Thanks
Modular Hippo

Hi Ronnie,

If you are using a 48V battery, the Nominal battery voltage should be set to 48V, which should allow a higher Battery drawn current setting to be entered.

The only parameter figures I have for the VEC200 were from a 72V version, which had the Battery drawn current set to 80A and the Maximum and Rated phase current set to 210A.

A lower battery voltage requires a higher current draw to produce the same power output, so I'm puzzled as to why your controller is not allowing values over 60A to be entered.

Alan
 

What should I get to make it able to ride uphill on steep climbs?

With the original 16:42 primary belt reduction and 12:64 secondary chain reduction it should give a combined overall gear reduction ratio of 14:1 (or 15.27:1 with a 11T sprocket).
This is even lower geared than the Electro-Motion trials bike which only has an overall reduction of ~12.9:1 and that bike also uses the same 5kW motor.

Therefore, I still maintain that a 72V battery and BMS that can deliver 110 Amps continuously and 180 Amps peak should be all that you require to be able to ride uphill on steep climbs.

According to my calculations, if your motor is able to draw 110 Amps from the controller using a suitable battery, it should produce ~18Nm of torque @ 3,500rpm.
When this torque is multiplied by your 14:1 gear ratio (12T front sprocket) the resultant 252Nm of wheel torque should theoretically be sufficient to propel your 60kg bike and 80kg rider up a 35° incline (70% gradient) at a maximum speed of ~17.58mph (28.29km/h). 

If the same torque were multiplied by a 15.27:1 gear ratio (11T front sprocket) the resultant 274.86Nm of wheel torque should theoretically be sufficient to propel your 60kg bike and 80kg rider up a 40° incline (84% gradient) at a maximum speed of ~16.1mph (25.91km/h).

Alan